Cradled between the Caha Mountains and the deep, sheltered waters of Berehaven, Castletownbere is one of Ireland’s busiest fishing ports and a historic hub on the edge of the Atlantic.
With a past shaped by naval strategy, rebellion, and trade, this Wild Atlantic Way town brims with character and tales of the sea.
The town makes a great base for exploring the Beara Peninsula, with plenty of places to eat, sleep and sip.
Visiting Castletownbere
Photos via Street View
Although a visit to Castletownbere is fairly straightforward, there are a few need-to-knows that’ll make your visit that bit more enjoyable.
1. Location
Castletown is in West Cork on the Beara Peninsula. It’s right on the water in Bearhaven Harbour on Bantry Bay, with great connections to Bere Island and the rest of the area. It’s just under 2 hours away from Cork City and 45 minutes away from Bantry.
2. Part of the Ring of Beara
It’s a part of the Ring of Beara, a famous drive along the Beara Peninsula. The route is made up of beautiful rugged landscapes, enchanting islands, and picturesque towns and villages (like Castletownbere). The drive is a large loop, so you can start and end in Castletownbere.
3. A scenic base to explore from
Castletownbere is a great base for exploring. It’s right in the middle of the Beara Peninsula, which is a beautiful and remote area of Cork. This area is home to numerous trails and hikes, like the Beara Way, a roughly 220km long trail that can be broken into more manageable walks.
About Castletownbere
Castletownbere (officially called Castletown-Bearhaven) is Ireland’s largest whitefish port. It’s a major town on the Beara Peninsula, and it sits protected in Bearhaven Harbour, the world’s second-safest natural harbour.
The town is a seafood lover’s dream, with many seafood restaurants and pubs serving up fresh, high-quality seafood. It’s picturesque, with brightly painted houses, shops, and pubs, plus some colourful fish boasts to match!
On the first Thursday of every month (weekly in the summer), the market square gets transformed into a sea of stalls selling everything from live poultry, to baked goods, to books!
Castletownbere is full of history, and Dunboy Castle nearby is where the last battle between the O’Sullivan Beare Clan and Elizabeth I took place in 1602. Legend says that the clan cursed the land when they were evicted, and Puxley Manor, built later on near the castle, was eventually burned down by the IRA in the 1920s.
Things to do in Castletownbere and nearby
You’ll find some of the best things to do in Cork in-and-around Castletownbere.
While there isn’t a huge amount to do in the town itself, it makes a mighty base to explore from, and here’s why!
1. Bere Island
Bere Island sits at the mouth of Bantry Bay, just off the coast of Castletownbere. Two ferry services visit the island, but Bere Island Ferries have regular crossings directly from town.
The island is a lovely place to explore on foot, with numerous walking trails. The Main Beara Way walk is great as it starts at either ferry point. I’d recommend it for more experienced walkers, as it’s 19km long and takes between 7-8 hours.
Sea safari is another wonderful (and less tiring way) to explore the island. Join a tour and admire the lighthouses, beaches, and cliffs, all while looking out for wildlife like seals, dolphins, and porpoises!
2. The Ring of Beara Drive
The Ring of Beara Drive is a 140km drive that winds around the wild Beara Peninsula, passing through both Kerry and Cork County. The route is an easy circular loop so that you can start and end in Castletownbere.
Best of all, it can easily be driven in 3-4 hours (without stops). On the drive, you’ll pass through some gorgeous towns and villages, have the chance to visit islands, and the opportunity to make short detours to see historical monuments.
Some top highlights and off-the-beaten-path gems are the Uragh Stone Circle, Bere, Dursey, and Garnish Island, and Molly Gallivan’s Cottage.
3. Dursey Island
Dursey Island is on the western tip of the Beara Peninsula. It’s a 30-minute drive plus a 10-minute cable car ride on Ireland’s only cable car.
This surreal island has wildlife, untamed landscapes, and a lot of history. It’s a haven for birdwatchers as it’s home to Gannets, Razorbills, Choughs, Puffins, and more! The island has ancient church ruins, a signal tower, and abandoned houses too.
The Dursey Island Loop is a great way to discover the island. It’s a 14km trail that follows paved roads in one direction and a marked hilly trail in the other.
4. Gorgeous towns and villages
Castletownbere is close to many quirky villages and towns. A couple of favourites are Eyeries and Allihies. Eyeries is only a 12-minute drive, and Allihies is a 23-minute drive. It’s possible to visit them both in a day along a part of the Ring of Beara Drive!
Eyeries has a lovely location with views of the mouth of Kenmare River and Coulagh Bay. The village is known for its brightly painted houses and has some nice places to eat.
Allihies, a former mining village turned tourist destination, has attractions like the Allihies Copper Mine Museum, Allihies Beach, and the Allihies Copper Mine Trail.
5. Glengarriff Nature Reserve
Glengarriff Nature Reserve is just over 30 minutes away from Castletownbere. The reserve is around 740 acres with large areas of old oak woodland and some phenomenal wildlife.
There are numerous woodland trails with ranging difficulties and lengths. The River Walk is one of the easiest trails, following a meandering footpath for 1km amongst the oak trees next to the Glengarriff River.
Another easy walk is the Waterfall Walk, a 15-minute gently sloping trail to a small waterfall. It’s best to visit this one after a big rain as that’s when the waterfall is the most impressive.
6. Garnish Island
Garnish Island in Glengarriff Harbour is a 30-minute drive and a short ferry ride away from Castletownbere. There are regular crossings to and from the island, which usually include making a short detour to observe a local seal colony!
The small 37-acre island has gorgeous gardens that are full of unique plants which flourish all year long. The gardens are also decorated by beautiful structures like a Grecian temple, a Martello Tower, and a clock tower.
Another attraction of the island is Bryce House, an old family residence that contains a large collection of books, paintings, and drawings.
7. Healy Pass
The Healy Pass is one of the country’s best drives, winding through some jaw-dropping and desolate landscapes.
It starts at Adrigole Bridge in County Cork and ends at Lauragh Bridge in County Kerry, passing through two of the highest summits in the Caha Mountains. Its highest point is 334 metres above sea level and offers amazing views.
The route is great for those who want to go on a scenic drive but don’t have a lot of time, as it’s only 12 kilometres long! It’s full of hairpin bends and sharp turns, which makes it a fun and challenging drive, but one that requires some caution.
Places to stay in Castletownbere
Photos via Lynch’s on the Pier on FB
There are numerous places to stay in Castletownbere with rooms across all budget ranges. Here are some good options to consider:
1. Lynch’s on the Pier
Lynch’s on the Pier has probably got the most central location in town. It’s on The Square next to the pier and within walking distance of the town’s restaurants, pubs, and cafes. They have modern double, twin, and triple rooms, with the option of a sea view.
2. The Old Medical Hall
This unique property is located in an old chemist’s shop. It’s in the centre of town, close to everything you would need. They have single, twin, and double rooms, all with en-suite bathrooms. A continental breakfast is included with the room, served in the Tea Room cafe on the ground floor.
3. Cosy B&Bs
As a quaint fishing village, there are plenty of cosy B&Bs in and around Castletownbere. Island View House is within walking distance of the town centre, and it has amazing harbour, ocean, and mountain views. For something a little more rural, Cottage Heights B&B is a 10-minute walk with beautiful views from the communal terrace.
Pubs in Castletownbere
Photos by The Irish Road Trip
There are some great pubs in Castletownbere for those that fancy a post-adventure-pint. While I find myself returning to McCarthy’s the most (see snap above!), there are several good spots dotted around the town:
1. McCarthy’s Bar
McCarthy’s Bar is a traditional Irish pub on The Square (you’ll recognise it if you’ve read Pete McCarthy’s book). Their seafood chowder is very popular, but you can also get something lighter like sandwiches. If you can, try and nab a seat in the little snug just inside the door. The Murphy’s here is the best I’ve sampled anywhere in Ireland.
2. O’Donoghue’s Bar
O’Donoghue’s Bar in The Square is easily found thanks to its purple walls. They’re open for lunch, serving favourites like homemade seafood chowder with brown bread and other fresh seafood dishes. It’s a great pub if you’re looking to catch a game, with two wide-screen TVs for watching sports.
3. Twomey’s Ivy Bar
Twomey’s Ivy Bar is a family-run bar located right in the centre of town. Out back, there’s a covered beer garden with plenty of seating. They serve typical pub grub, and on the weekends, there’s live music and a cocktail menu!
Places to eat in Castletownbere
Photos via Castletownbere on FB
Given its proximity to the sea, it’s probably of no surprise that there are some excellent seafood restaurants in Castletownbere. Here are several great spots for a feed:
1. Murphy’s Restaurant
Murphy’s Restaurant on Main Street is a family-run establishment serving fresh seafood and traditional Irish cuisine. You can’t miss it because of the beautiful mural painted outside! Open for lunch and dinner, they serve specials like roast beef or steamed monkfish as well as tasty homemade desserts like sticky toffee pudding
2. Lynch’s on the Pier
Right on the pier, Lynch’s on the Pier serves breakfast, lunch, and early dinner. They have a varied breakfast menu and even a “Little Irish” if you’re not too hungry. Their lunch and dinner menu has lighter meals like salads as well as heartier dishes. The Lynch’s Dexter Beef Burger is a must-try with beef from their family farm.
3. Breen’s Lobster Bar
Breen’s Lobster Bar in Castletownbere’s centre is easily spotted by its pretty pink paint job. There’s plenty of room inside, but there’s also limited outdoor seating. They specialise in seafood, and they also have some vegetarian dishes. Their “catch of the day” is popular, as well as their fish pie and chowder.
Keith O’Hara has lived in Ireland for 35 years and has spent much of the last 13 creating what is now The Irish Road Trip guide. Over the years, the website has published thousands of meticulously researched Ireland travel guides, welcoming 40 million+ visitors along the way. In 2022, the Irish Road Trip team published the world’s largest collection of Irish Road Trip itineraries. Keith lives in Dublin with his dog Toby and finds writing in the 3rd person minus craic altogether.