Day 10 (Cork and Kerry) – Crazy roads and a big aul chunk of the Ring of Kerry
We’re moving out of Cork faster than I’d like, but we’ve got a whole load more exploring to do.
Day 10 sees us tackle more of the Rebel County before taking on a chunk of the Ring of Kerry drive.
1 – The bendy road at Healy Pass
// Bantry to the Healy Pass – 45-minute drive (leave at 8, arrive for 8:45) //
Healy Pass is hands down one of the craziest roads that I’ve ever driven on in Ireland.
The road, which was constructed in 1847 during the years of the famine, looks like a giant snake from above, slithering its way through the two highest summits in the Caha mountain range.
Healy Pass is a corner of Ireland that looks like time passed it by and forgot all about it, leaving it untouched and unspoiled.
Drive the road and pull in (where possible) at the top for a view of Healy Pass on one side, and then Kerry on the other (the photo below shows the Kerry side).
2 – Molls Gap via Kenmare (yep, we’ve arrived in Kerry)
// Healy Pass to Molls Gap – 45-minute drive (we’ll add 20 minutes for a stop in Kenmare – arrive for 09:50) //
Moll’s Gap is a bendy pass that offers unrivalled views out over the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and the surrounding countryside.
It earned its name from a hardy woman named Moll Kissane.
Moll ran a Sibin, which is an unlicensed pub, in the area during the construction of the original Kenmare road way back in the 1820s.
Her homemade poitin and whiskey, which she sold to the men working on the road, made her a well liked local. It may have also influenced the naming of the gap.
Chill here for a bit and admire the view.
3 – The lovely Ladies View
// Molls Gap to Ladies View – 10-minute drive (arrive for 10:40) //
The view you’ll be treated to when you arrive at Ladies View is just out of this world.
If it’s a fine day, I’m going to recommend that you head into the little cafe next to Ladies View, grab a coffee, and head to the upstairs seating area.
4 – Ballaghbeama Gap (a very hidden gem)
// Ladies View to Ballaghbeama Gap – 35-minute drive (arrive for 11:45) //
This is hands down one of my favourite drives that we’ll be taking on this Ireland road trip.
Ballaghbeama Pass cuts across the mountains in the centre of the Iveragh Peninsula.
It treats drivers, walkers and cyclists to an isolated but almost otherworldly driving route where you’ll meet little traffic, plenty of sheep and endless mountain views.
I did this drive with my Mam recently and it was absolutely fantastic. Here’s a little of what you can expect.
5 – Taking the scenic route to Waterville
// Ballaghbeama Gap to Waterville – 1-hour drive (arrive for around 13:30) //
We’re going to take a very lovely, very isolated, and very off the beaten track route to get to Ballinskelligs.
The drive takes us along the magnificent Ballaghisheen Pass. A spin that you won’t forget any time soon.
Here’s a taste of what you can expect to see.
6 – Lunch in Waterville
// Arrive for 13:30 //
We’re going to nip into An Corcan for lunch (the steak sandwich is cracking).
An Corcan is a tiny little cafe/restaurant that I’ve been to several times over the years.
The food is lovely and the people serving are friendly.
When you’ve had a feed, head for a little ramble around the village.
7 – The Skellig Ring drive
// Kick it off from Ballinskelligs at 14:30 //
If you’re visiting Kerry, you need to add a spin along the Skellig Ring to your itinerary. it. Is. Ammmmmmmazing! Here’s a taste of what you can expect.
This route takes you down narrow lanes, through tiny villages and up steep and narrow cliff roads.
For those of you that add this on to your Ireland road trip, expect a gorgeous, unspoiled peninsula with bendy roads, gorgeous towns and a backdrop of mountains and islands that’ll make you want to stop the car (or bike) at every turn.
8 – The Kerry Cliffs (part of the Skellig drive)
// Arrive to the Kerry Cliffs for 15:20 //
When you hear the words ‘Ireland’ and ‘Cliffs’ mentioned in the same sentence, it’s likely that your mind will shoot to the Cliffs of Moher.
However, there are several other great cliffs to visit across Ireland. One of which are the Kerry Cliffs.
Expect raw, wild, magnificent scenery, with the jagged outline of Skellig Michael on the horizon rarely far from view.
This is one of those places that makes you really aware of how powerful mother nature is.
9 – Valentia Island
// Kerry Cliffs to Valentia – 15-minute drive (arrive for 14:20) //
Valentia Island is connected to the little town of Portmagee by the Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge
When you get to the island, point your car in the direction of the Geokaun Mountain and Cliffs (€5 entry fee), and start the steep ascent towards the top.
You’ll be treated to incredible views out to your right as you edge closer to the summit.
The scenery here is immensely special.
For those of you that fancy stretching the legs, you can do the Bray Head Loop Walk which offers brilliant views out towards the Skellig Islands.
10 – Cahersiveen for the night
// Valentia Island to Cahersiveen – 25-minute drive (arrive for 17:00) //
We’re going to spend night 10 at the foot of the Beentee Mountain in the town of Cahersiveen.
If you’ve some more exploring left in the tank, take the spin out to Ballycarbery Castle.
Ballycarbery Castle was once home to the McCarthy Clan and is thought to have been built sometime in the 15th century.
It’s arguably one of the the largest and most impressive castles built on the Iveragh peninsula.
I’m going to recommend that you stay in the Skellig Star Hotel, as it’s central and the reviews are great.
When you’ve checked in and relaxed for a bit, head down to the Fertha Bar and Restaurant for food and, if you like, a drink.
Keith O’Hara has lived in Ireland for 35 years and has spent much of the last 13 creating what is now The Irish Road Trip guide. Over the years, the website has published thousands of meticulously researched Ireland travel guides, welcoming 40 million+ visitors along the way. In 2022, the Irish Road Trip team published the world’s largest collection of Irish Road Trip itineraries. Keith lives in Dublin with his dog Toby and finds writing in the 3rd person minus craic altogether.
jd
Wednesday 27th of November 2024
I googled Lochside B&B, but could not locate it. Keeps coming up with a place in the UK.
Do you have a url for them? Or email address?
Keith O'Hara
Thursday 28th of November 2024
Hi JD - Thanks for this comment. It appears that they are no longer in operation. A good alternative is the Glenbeg Lodge. It's a 20-minute drive from the brewery. Cheers - Keith
Janet
Wednesday 16th of October 2024
This was an epic endeavor. And sooo well done. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication. This is everything I could have asked for in planning a trip to Ireland. I wish I could have found it sooner. I have to settle for 14 days AND somehow hope to traverse most of this territory. We just learned that my husband's family is from Cavan Co. I really appreciated that it was included. It is the first time I have seen a tour include Cavan. Especially helpful was your inclusion of drive times between destinations. I had to hand write out your ideas or it would have been monumental to print out. I was overwhelmed at all the detail as I'm sure you were. Thank You so much.
Leeann Nolan
Wednesday 15th of November 2023
Hi Keith Thank you so much for all the work you have done on The Irish Road Trip. I have used much of it to plan my 7 week trip to Ireland in 2024. It has been invaluable :)
Mick Bourke
Sunday 24th of September 2023
G’day Keith-thanks for your trip. My wife and I will be over there in late April and most of May (about a month in total before heading to Scotland for a couple of weeks). I think I’ll be using your trip (which is great (as also is the additional info at the bottom)) as the basis for ours, however, I would like to do abit more of the inland (like a figure eight of the island). Do you have any suggestions?
Keith O'Hara
Wednesday 27th of September 2023
Hey Mick,
Is there anywhere in particular you have in mind with the inland section?
Cheers,
Keith
MIchael Katekar
Tuesday 11th of July 2023
A big thank you for all of the time and hard work you have put into this blog. Great information. I don't think we can keep up with your pace but will certainly take up many of your suggestions.