Planning a 20-day Ireland itinerary can be a pain in the backside… So, we’ve done all of the hard work for you!
We’ve spent 25+ years travelling around Ireland and the itinerary below leans on that experience and the many mistakes we made along the way!
In a nutshell, this 20-day itinerary:
- Has been meticulously planned
- Has an hour-by-hour itinerary for each day to save you time/hassle
- Follows logical routes that take you to hidden gems, tourist favourites and great pubs and restaurants
Who this itinerary will suit
Now, before you scroll down, take 10 seconds to look at the graphic above – each of our road trip itineraries have been tailored to specific needs.
This road trip is specifically for those of you:
- Starting in/near Knock
- Using your own car/a rental (if you’re renting a car, read this Irish car rental guide – it’ll save you time and hassle)
- Looking to explore at a slow pace
- With a low level of fitness (i.e. it avoids long walks and hikes)
- Remember, we have hundreds of different itineraries here if this one doesn’t suit you
An overview of this 20-day itinerary
The map above gives you a very high-level overview of where this route will take you.
It uses several bases (e.g. Dublin for 4 nights) and provides you with day-long road trips you can head off on, so you avoid having to change accommodation constantly.
Now, I’ll stop rambling on – here’s a day-by-day insight into each of the days below!
Day 1: Sligo’s history and beaches
It’s day one and welcome to Ireland! Today, you’re heading up to Sligo Town from Knock Airport, where you’ll be doing some exploring of Ireland’s gorgeous northwest coast.
You’ll spend two nights in Sligo before making your way to Westport.
If you haven’t already got somewhere in mind to stay, we’ve made a list of our favourite hotels and B&Bs in Sligo town below!
Our Sligo accommodation recommendations
- Budget: Old Fort B&B (great reviews and a 7-minute spin from town) and Tranquility B&B (solid reviews and a 5-minute drive from town)
- Mid-range: Riverside Hotel (central with great reviews) and Sligo Southern Hotel (10-minute stroll into town and nice and comfy)
- Upper-range: The Glasshouse (right by the river in the town – close to everything) and the Clayton Hotel (5-minute drive to town with swimming pool)
Stop 1: Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery
From the airport, it’s a roughly 45-minute drive to the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery. This is a fascinating spot containing the country’s oldest and densest cluster of Neolithic tombs.
The site dates back over 6,000 years, with around 30 passage tombs still standing today (sadly, many were lost to quarrying and land clearance during the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries).
At the centre of the cemetery, you’ll easily spot Listoghil or Tomb 51, by far the largest monument on the site at 34 metres in diameter. It’s the only tomb on the site clearly covered by a cairn, and Megalithic art has been found under the roof slab!
The site is free to visit, but we recommend paying extra (around €5, cash only) for a guided tour and access to the exhibition in the restored cottage on site. Most people spend around one and a half hours here.
Stop 2: Lunch in Strandhill
Drive the 10 minutes to Strandhill, a little seaside village, to grab some lunch. If you’re looking to kick off your holiday with some traditional Irish pub grub, then look no further than The Strand Bar.
They have all the classics and their Guinness beef stew is divine.
Dunnes Bar is our go-to for a mouth-watering burger, with heaps of options, including two vegetarian burgers. If you’re in a group, then consider heading to Stoked for world-cuisine tapas.
They’ve got some bangers on the menu, like Tandoori squid and lamb shoulder bao.
Stop 3: Coffee and a stroll on the beach
If you’ve still got a little bit of room left, walk over to Mammy Johnstons for a coffee to go, followed by a leisurely stroll on the beach.
Strandhill Beach is a beautiful sandy beach with some great views of Sligo Bay and Knocknarea Mountain.
Coffee in hand, walk along the shore and explore the sand dunes or watch the surfers tackling the waves (it’s a popular surf spot throughout the year).
Although the water may look tempting (especially in the summer), Strandhill Beach is not a swimmer’s beach as there are dangerous rip currents further out.
Stop 4: Sligo Abbey
Your next stop is Sligo Abbey, a 15-minute drive from Strandhill. The Dominican friary dates back to the mid-13th century and was founded by Maurice FitzGerald, the founder of Sligo town.
The abbey ruins are in great condition, considering they survived a fire in 1414, an attack during the ‘Nine Year War’ in 1595, and pillaging during the Rebellion of 1641.
Legend has it that during the rebellion, the abbey’s silver bell was salvaged and thrown into nearby Lough Gill. Today, only those “pure of heart” can still hear the peal of the bell through the town…
Despite sustaining heavy damage, the abbey, which is a blend of Norman and Gothic architecture, still has beautiful carvings and monuments.
For those interested in literature, the abbey was featured in two of W.B. Yeat’s poems – ‘The Curse of the Fires and of the Shadows’ and ‘The Crucifixion of the Outcast’.
Stop 5: Yeats building
If you’ve an interest in Irish culture, take the short, 6-minute stroll to the Yeats Building. It’s here that you’ll be immersed in all things drama, history, literature and poetry.
There’s a Yeats exhibition that’ll take you into the mind of one of Ireland’s most famous poets and you can also take a guided tour (advance booking needed).
Stop 6: Dinner, drinks and live music
It’s time to wrap up your first day, and what a day it was! Head back to your hotel to freshen up, or go directly from the museum to grab some dinner. We’ve got some suggestions below.
Our Sligo food recommendations
Hopefully, you’re hungry as there’s some excellent restaurants in Sligo.
Head to Hooked for delicious Irish and international food made from local ingredients sourced from Sligo County. Some of our favourite dishes are the Sherlock of Tubbercurry’s prime beef steak sandwich and the buffalo chicken mac’n’cheese, but they also have some delicious vegan and vegetarian dishes.
For seafood and steaks, we love Coachlane. It’s a little on the pricey side, but their certified Irish angus beef is worth the extra money. If steak isn’t your thing, their seafood platter is incredible, with salmon, scallops, crab claws, cod, monkfish, and shrimp.
Our Sligo pub recommendations
If you’re feeling like after dinner drinks, we suggest hitting up Hargadon Bros (a traditional Irish pub dating back to 1868), Thomas Connolly (a heritage Irish pub and the oldest in Sligo Town), and Shoot the Crows (a cosy and quirky traditional pub with a great pint of Guinness).
For a night of lively trad music, pass by McLynns Bar or Fureys Pub (or both!).
McLynns is in the heart of Sligo town on Old Market Street. The fourth-generation pub has been running since 1889, with live music (Irish folk, acoustic, and bluegrass) every weekend and on mid-week nights. The traditional interior will transport you back in time with wooden furniture and historical decor.
Fureys Pub on Bridge Street is a cosy old-style pub with a great atmosphere, an open fire (great for those cold winter evenings), and live trad music on weekends and certain weekday nights.
Day 2: Sligo – Yeats Country
Today we are exploring more of Sligo. Just a note on today, we have you drive back to Sligo to grab some lunch before heading back out to Lissadel house.
If you want to cut down on driving time today, we recommend that you drop into a Centra, Spar, or SuperValu and grab a sandwich or packed lunch to keep in the car with you.
Start the day with a hearty breakfast at your accommodation.
Or, if you want to have breakfast out, we recommend Margarets Cafe (a cosy spot with traditional Irish breakfast, french toast, and pancakes) or Lyons Cafe and Bakeshop (hearty-cooked breakfasts and artisanal pastries).
Stop 1: The Model
Sligo is officially Yeats country, so it’s a great opportunity to learn about and see works by both brothers. The Model is a wonderful contemporary art gallery and centre in the heart of Sligo town.
It’s home to the Niland Collection (named after the librarian who founded the collection in the 1950s, Nora Niland), with over 300 works, including a significant collection of Yeats pieces.
‘A Political Meeting (In the West of Ireland)’, ‘A Sunday Morning in Sligo’, and ‘An Island Man’ are just a few of the J.B. Yeats works in the collection. Each year, the gallery curates six exhibitions from the Niland Collection, with a heavy focus on the works of J.B. Yeats.
Stop 2: Drumcliffe Church and WB Yeats Grave
After The Model, hop in the car and drive the 10 minutes to Drumcliffe Church (also known as St. Columba’s Church).
This beautiful church is renowned for being the location of W.B. Yeat’s grave (although it wasn’t his first resting place!). His simple grave is in the churchyard, with an inscription reading, “cast a cold eye on life, on death, horseman, pass by”, written by the poet himself.
The church is in a stunning location, in front of Benbulben Mountain, amongst lush green fields. There’s free parking on-site, and if you’re already hankering for another coffee, there’s a little coffee shop.
Stop 3: Glencar Waterfall
Okay, so Glencar Waterfall is technically in Leitrim, but since it’s only 16 minutes from the church and right on the Sligo border, we had to include it!
Glencar Waterfall is a magical place and the inspiration for W.B. Yeat’s poem ‘The Stolen Child’. The waterfall, a lovely little cascade, is tucked away within an enchanting forest only a five to 10 minutes walk from the car park.
There’s plenty of parking there, so there’s usually no trouble finding a space.
Stop 4: Back to Sligo for Lunch (optional)
If you didn’t opt to grab a packed lunch this morning, then drive the 17 minutes back to Sligo town for a cooked meal.
Our personal favourite lunch spot is Hooked (which we recommended last night for dinner). Their brunch menu has Irish classics like beer-battered fish and chips and international dishes like the 12-Hour Slow Cooked Pork Belly Vietnamese Bahn Mi.
If Hooked doesn’t take your fancy, then we also recommend Lyons Cafe and Bakeshop or Bridgefoot House.
Stop 5: Lissadell House
Kick off the afternoon with a visit to Lissadell House, a 19-minute drive outside of Sligo Town or Glencar. The neo-classical Greek revivalist home dates back to 1830 and was completed in 1835.
The original 32,000-acre estate belonged to the Gore-Booth family. It was the childhood home of Constance (who would become Countess Markievicz, a famous Irish revolutionary) and Eva Gore-Booth (a poet and suffragette), alongside their three siblings. The Yeats brothers also visited the home on holiday, with W. B. Yeats referencing the home and the famous sisters in his poem “In Memory of Eva Gore-Booth and Con Markiewicz”.
Today, the now 500-acre estate and home are privately owned, although it is open to the public. There’s lots to do, whether it’s taking a stroll through the 2.5-acre garden, admiring the lavish rooms, seeing the 1916 exhibition, or visiting the Yeats Gallery, which contains works of painter Jack B. Yeats.
Stop 6: Streedagh Beach stroll
Hop in the car and make your way to Streedagh Beach, a 15-minute drive away. There’s a large car park there, so you usually don’t have to worry about finding a spot.
The beach itself is an impressive 3km long sandy stretch on a sandbar that links the mainland to Connor’s Island. We think the beach has probably the best view of Benbulben Mountain in the county, and you may recognise it from the TV show, Normal People.
It’s a lovely spot for a ramble to take in the fresh sea air and the amazing views. During the summer, there’s a lifeguard service, although we advise against swimming unless you’re experienced, as the waters have strong tides and undercurrents.
Stop 7: Back to Sligo town for the evening
It’s time to call it a day and head back to Sligo town. It’s around 22 minutes in the car, and you may want to stop by your accommodation to freshen up before dinner or, if you’re really hungry, go straight to the restaurant!
Our Sligo food recommendations
Hopefully, you’re hungry as there’s some excellent restaurants in Sligo.
Head to Hooked for delicious Irish and international food made from local ingredients sourced from Sligo County. Some of our favourite dishes are the Sherlock of Tubbercurry’s prime beef steak sandwich and the buffalo chicken mac’n’cheese, but they also have some delicious vegan and vegetarian dishes.
For seafood and steaks, we love Coachlane. It’s a little on the pricey side, but their certified Irish angus beef is worth the extra money. If steak isn’t your thing, their seafood platter is incredible, with salmon, scallops, crab claws, cod, monkfish, and shrimp.
Our Sligo pub recommendations
If you’re feeling like after dinner drinks, we suggest hitting up Hargadon Bros (a traditional Irish pub dating back to 1868), Thomas Connolly (a heritage Irish pub and the oldest in Sligo Town), and Shoot the Crows (a cosy and quirky traditional pub with a great pint of Guinness).
For a night of lively trad music, pass by McLynns Bar or Fureys Pub (or both!).
McLynns is in the heart of Sligo town on Old Market Street. The fourth-generation pub has been running since 1889, with live music (Irish folk, acoustic, and bluegrass) every weekend and on mid-week nights. The traditional interior will transport you back in time with wooden furniture and historical decor.
Fureys Pub on Bridge Street is a cosy old-style pub with a great atmosphere, an open fire (great for those cold winter evenings), and live trad music on weekends and certain weekday nights.
Day 3: The Mayo Coast
Today we’re heading to Westport, the long way round. Along the way, we’ll take in the stunning Mayo coast and the sights of Achill Island, one of the country’s most remote areas and Ireland’s largest island.
There’s going to be a lot of driving today, but it really is the only way to see all of the incredible places we’ve got lined up for you! Be sure to drop by a shop before you leave Sligo to grab plenty of snacks and water for the car.
Before hitting the road, let’s grab one last breakfast in Sligo, either at your accommodation or one of the many fantastic cafes in town. Margaret’s Cafe does a wonderful full Irish, but their pancakes and smoked bacon are also well worth giving a go. For a vegan-friendly alternative, head to Sweet Beat, where you’ll find an extensive menu and great coffee.
You’ll need to book three nights’ accommodation in Westport, so be sure to check out our suggestions.
Our Westport accommodation recommendations
- Budget: Old Mill Holiday Hostel (in the town with good reviews) and Clooneen House (very central with excellent reviews)
- Mid-range: Castlecourt Hotel (very central and has a spa) and Westport Plaza Hotel (central with exceptional reviews)
- High-range: Knockranny House (gorgeous hotel a 1-minute drive from town)
Stop 1: Grab a cup of coffee and stretch your legs in Ballina
Our first stop takes us to the riverside town of Ballina, about an hour’s drive from Sligo. Straddling the River Moy, it’s a beautiful, tranquil town that’s nice to stroll around. Park up in the Market Square car park, which costs around 50 cents an hour or so.
If you fancy a cup of coffee while you wander the town, both The Coffee Vine Cafe and Dave’s Deli and Coffee Shack are a short walk from the car park. They both offer a superb choice of coffee styles, as well as pastries and cakes.
Stop 2: Dun Briste
Jumping back in the car, we’ll drive 34 minutes to the spectacular Dun Briste sea stack, just off Downpatrick Head. Standing 45 metres high, 63 metres long and 23 metres wide, it lies just 200 metres offshore and is home to puffins, kittiwakes and cormorants. There’s a spacious car park when you reach the headland, and from there, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the edge of the cliffs.
With its colourful rock strata and churning waters below, it’s an impressive sight. Legend tells that it was formed by Saint Patrick, who struck the ground with his crozier to strand Crom Dubh, a Celtic Chieftain. There’s a clatter of things to see at Downpatrick Head, including the WWII EIRE 64 lookout post, St Patrick’s Church, and Pul Na Sean Tinne, a blowhole known as the “Hole of the Old Fire”. You’ll also find a nice tea shop and cafe there.
Stop 3: Ceide Fields
Our next stop is the Ceide Fields, just a 19-minute drive from Dun Briste. More than 6,000 years old, this remarkable neolithic site perches atop the cliffs, some 113 metres above the sea. This extensive Stone Age monument is the oldest-known field system in the world, containing a number of megalithic tombs, ancient stone-walled fields, and the remains of centuries-old dwelling places.
There’s a fantastic visitor centre, which rises from the peat bog in a pyramid shape and boasts an array of displays and exhibits to check out. You can enjoy a guided tour of the area too, or visit the viewing platform. And, of course, there’s a decent little cafe too.
Stop 4: Ballycroy – Wild Nephin National Park
After Ceide Fields, we’ll take a beautiful 50-minute drive through the stark beauty of Mayo’s countryside before arriving at Ballycroy Visitor Centre in the heart of Wild Nephin National Park. The park is home to a wealth of gorgeous lakes, mountains, and bogs, with a range of walks to suit all schedules and abilities.
First, it’s worth popping into the visitor centre, which showcases some fascinating displays and exhibits that explain the history and culture of the area. If you want to check out your beautiful surroundings, there’s a nice, easy-going 2 km walk from the visitor centre that offers spectacular views out to Achill Island and the Nephin Beg Mountain Range.
Stop 5: Lunch on Achill Island
For lunch, we’ll drive over the Michael Davitt Bridge onto the epic Achill Island, which boasts breathtaking landscapes and plenty to see and do. For food, the lively village of Keel, about 45 minutes from Ballycroy, is the place to be, with several pubs, cafes, and restaurants to choose from.
We recommend the Beehive Crafts and Gifts Restaurant, with excellent indoor and outdoor seating and a varied menu, with options for all dietary requirements. Be sure to check out the fishcakes! Alternatively, The Currach is a good choice and they do a mean seafood chowder.
Alternatively, stop off at Blásta at Ted’s in Cashel. Parked up in the pub car park, this fantastic food truck offers up a wealth of tasty treats, including mussels, excellent fish and chips, shrimp tacos, and falafel. With daily specials, there’s always something new to try. In fact, the only problem with Blásta is that it’s so hard to choose just one thing!
Stop 6: Keel Beach
After lunch, feel free to potter about Keel Beach, one of the most popular on Achill, especially for surfers. There’s even board and wetsuit rental if you fancy giving surfing a go yourself! Blue Flag certified, the beach enjoys fantastic water quality, as well as a seasonal lifeguard service, making it a great spot for swimming too.
You’ll find plenty of parking at Keel Beach, as well as clean toilets and numerous picnic tables. It’s a 12-minute drive from Ted’s, or just down the road from the restaurants and cafes in Keel.
Stop 7: Keem Bay
Next stop, the exotic-looking Keem Bay. Seriously, on a sunny day, it looks more like Bali than Ireland! Surrounded by towering green cliffs, it boasts a luscious white sandy beach and crystal-clear seas. A nice place for a swim (lifeguards are on duty during summer months), it’s also a top place for relaxing and taking in the scenery. The 12-minute drive up there from Keel is also incredibly scenic, so be sure to take your time.
Stop 8: White Cliffs of Ashleam
The White Cliffs of Ashleam are another Achill Island highlight that are well worth driving to. If you put “White Cliffs of Ashleam @ Wild Atlantic Way” into Google Maps, it’ll take you on a 30-minute drive from Keem to the viewpoint, taking in amazing scenery the entire way. The road winds up to the viewpoint, and from there, you’ll get a fantastic eyeful. The jagged, bright white cliffs seem to cut into the sea, which crashes against them in a violent yet beautiful display.
Stop 9: Grace O’Malley Towerhouse
Our final stop on Achill Island takes us to Grace O’Malley’s Towerhouse. It’s just an 11-minute drive from the White Cliffs of Ashleam on the edge of Achill Sound. The tower dates back to the 15th century and was famously used by Grace O’Malley, the legendary Pirate Queen, who ruled the island hundreds of years ago. You’ll find a small car park at the tower, and if you want to get close, just hop over the stile and walk over.
Stop 10: Back to Westport for the night
Our final stop for the day takes us back onto the mainland and to the vibrant seaside town of Westport, which is about 50 minutes away.
Along the way, we’ll pass Clew Bay, which is home to 365 islands, one for each day of the year. After a long day on the road, you’ll want to check into your accommodation, freshen up, and then reward yourself with dinner and a few drinks in town.
Our Westport food recommendations
There’s some excellent restaurants in Westport and the town is another great place for locally-sourced food, with a host of restaurants to choose from. The award-winning An Port Mor, located in the town centre, is one of the best, with an array of succulent dishes, including the ever-popular Clew Bay Lobster.
JJ O’Malleys is another great choice, beloved by locals and visitors alike for its extensive menu that combines traditional Irish food and seafood with contemporary dishes. Plus, the decor is fantastic!
Our Westport pub recommendations
There’s some mighty pubs in Westport, too! For an end-of-day pint, you’d struggle to beat a visit to Toby’s Bar.
Small and unassuming, it’s a favourite among locals, with a friendly crowd of regulars. It boasts a fantastic atmosphere and many say that they pour the best pint of Guinness in town.
Blousers is another great option, especially on a cold night. A dram of whiskey or a pint by the roaring fireplace is always a welcome treat, plus they’ll often have live music.
The most iconic pub for live music in Westport is definitely Matt Molloy’s. It’s owned by the flautist from The Chieftains (if you’ve not heard them, check them out!) and offers traditional Irish music live every night. It has a lively atmosphere and often attracts a crowd.
Day 4: Westport and surrounds
After a day of exploring the coasts and countryside of County Mayo, we’ll be taking it easy today as we discover the attractions in and around Westport.
From beaches to historic houses, there’s lots to take in, all at your own pace.
First things first, you’ll want to grab a hearty breakfast either at your accommodation or in town. If you’re heading into town, This Must Be The Place serves up a mighty feed and a superb cup of coffee. The menu encompasses a bunch of healthy breakfast classics, as well as vegan options, toasties, and tasty cakes.
If you’re craving something not quite so healthy, get down to Cian’s for one of the best full Irish breakfasts in the country. The locally sourced ingredients make all the difference and it makes for a decadent start to the day.
Stop 1: Westport House
Our first stop of the day is the historic Westport House. You can also walk there from the town centre in around 15 minutes. There are loads of things to see and do at this spectacular country estate.
The grounds and gardens cover more than 400 acres, and a number of walking trails enable you to explore terraces, forests, and flower gardens.
Stepping inside takes you back in time, and you can enjoy either a guided or self-guided tour of the property. As you go, you’ll discover the history of the house and its various rooms through stories, artwork, and exhibits.
Stop 2: The National Famine Memorial
The National Famine Memorial is about a 20-minute drive away from Westport House in the vibrant village of Murrisk.
Sitting in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, you’ll be rewarded with more excellent views of the holy mountain.
The area marks the start point of the annual pilgrimage up the mountain, while the memorial stands as a poignant monument to everyone who died or immigrated during the famine.
Stop 3: Murrisk Abbey
Just a 3-minute walk from the National Famine Memorial, Murrisk Abbey is a gorgeously peaceful place to wander around.
The ruins date back to 1456 yet remain remarkably well-preserved in spite of their age. A number of information panels provide further details of the history of the area, which now also serves as a cemetery.
Stop 4: Bertra Beach
There’s a handful of beaches near Westport, but few can go toe-to-toe with the brilliant Bertra Beach.
It’s a handy 5-minute spin from the abbey and, despite being a favourite amongst locals, many tourists tend to miss it.
It’s a lovely spot for an early morning saunter and it’s nice and close to your next stops today.
Stop 5: Lunch in Westport
Head back to Westport for lunch, where you’ll find a host of great places to grab a bite to eat. Check out Cian’s on Bridge Street if you haven’t already for an array of sensational Irish dishes, like the incredible roast lamb rump. Or, for vegan dishes and lighter bites, get down to Friend’s Bistro. You should find plenty of street parking near both cafes, particularly around the Octagon.
Stop 6: Tourmakeady Woods
You’ll find Tourmakeady Woods around a 30-minute drive from Westport. There’s a lovely 30-minute ramble here that takes you through lush forest and on to see Tourmakeady Waterfall.
This is one of Mayo’s hidden gems and it’s a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of Westport Town.
Stop 7: Dinner, drinks and live music
It’s been a busy day, so why not grab dinner and finish your night with a pint at the iconic Matt Molloy’s Pub for some of the best live trad sessions this side of the Shannon?
Our Westport food recommendations
There’s some excellent restaurants in Westport and the town is another great place for locally-sourced food, with a host of restaurants to choose from. The award-winning An Port Mor, located in the town centre, is one of the best, with an array of succulent dishes, including the ever-popular Clew Bay Lobster.
JJ O’Malleys is another great choice, beloved by locals and visitors alike for its extensive menu that combines traditional Irish food and seafood with contemporary dishes. Plus, the decor is fantastic!
Our Westport pub recommendations
There’s some mighty pubs in Westport, too! For an end-of-day pint, you’d struggle to beat a visit to Toby’s Bar.
Small and unassuming, it’s a favourite among locals, with a friendly crowd of regulars. It boasts a fantastic atmosphere and many say that they pour the best pint of Guinness in town.
Blousers is another great option, especially on a cold night. A dram of whiskey or a pint by the roaring fireplace is always a welcome treat, plus they’ll often have live music.
The most iconic pub for live music in Westport is definitely Matt Molloy’s. It’s owned by the flautist from The Chieftains (if you’ve not heard them, check them out!) and offers traditional Irish music live every night. It has a lively atmosphere and often attracts a crowd.
Day 5: Connemara
Today you’re heading down through Connemara (an incredibly scenic part of the country) to Galway City, where you’ll be spending two nights.
You’ve got a busy day ahead, so enjoy a hearty breakfast at your accommodation, or, if you’d prefer to have breakfast out, Christy’s Harvest and This Must Be The Place are both solid choices.
Recommended accommodation in Galway
- Budget: Feeney’s Audubon Lodge (in Salthill outside of the city by the sea) and Corrib View Guesthouse (a 45-minute walk from Eyre Square)
- Mid-range: Balcony House B&B (10-minute walk from Eyre Square) and Ash Grove House (gorgeous guesthouse near Galway Cathedral)
- Luxury: The G Hotel (luxury hotel in the city) and Glenlo Abbey (one of Ireland’s top hotels – 15-minute drive from the city)
Stop 1: Silver Strand in Louisburg
Today’s drive is all about taking in some of Ireland’s most stunning landscapes. This first leg takes us on a short but sweet 25-minute drive from Westport to the charming village of Louisburg.
The road hugs the southern edge of Clew Bay, with the sea and its many islands on one side and the mighty Croagh Patrick mountain on the other.
Once you arrive in Louisburg, feel free to park up, stretch your legs, and grab a cup of coffee. Tia Cafe does a great cup, plus tasty cakes and bakes, and you can normally park right out in front on the roadside.
When you’re ready, take the short drive around to Silver Strand Beach. This is one of the Wild Atlantic Way’s finest, so soak up the sights, sounds and fresh sea air for a bit.
Stop 2: The Doolough Valley
After you leave Louisburgh, you’ll be making your way to Leenane via the outstanding Doolough Valley.
This stretch of road is one of the most scenic drives in Ireland, and you’ll often find the place virtually empty.
Before you enter the valley, you’ll reach a Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint sign. Stop here, and you’ll have a view of the area in the photo above.
When you’re ready, follow the road as it winds around the ink-black waters of the Killary Fjord towards the village of Leenane.
Stop 3: Aasleagh Falls
Take your time on the 35-minute drive through Doolough, and you’ll eventually reach Aasleagh Falls, which lies at the head of Killary Fjord.
There are two car parks at the falls, and it’s just a short walk to the cascade. However, with no official path to the waterfall, be prepared to cross a mucky field. It’s a gorgeous cascade, especially after the rain, and it’s a fine place to relax a little while, contemplating the meaning of life as the tranquil sound of running water fills the air.
Stop 4: Leenane and Killary Fjord
The gorgeous village of Leenane is just a short 5-minute drive from the waterfall. It sits on the edge of Killary Fjord, the only fjord in Ireland, and it’s another area of spectacular scenery. The village offers a truly authentic experience of rural Ireland, and for most of the year, it’s pretty quiet, although it can get busy in summer.
Having said that, there are plenty of attractions. It’s perhaps most well-known for serving as the impressive backdrop to Jim Sheridan’s classic, ‘The Field’, starring Richard Harris, John Hurt, Sean Bean, Brenda Fricker, and Tom Berenger. Fans of the movie will recognise much of the village, especially Gaynor’s Bar, which starred as the local pub in the film.
The Sheep and Wool Centre is always worth checking out, and you can find hand-crafted woolly sweaters, scarves, and much more while learning about how they’re made.
Stop 5: Kylemore Abbey
Our next stop is the epic Kylemore Abbey. Built in 1867, it’s perched on the edge of both Pollacapall Lough and the breathtaking Connemara National Park. As you wander the grounds, enjoy the gardens, church, and abbey before checking out the tea room and gift shop.
The grounds cover a staggering 13,000 acres of land and include magnificent gardens, walks and woodlands. Meanwhile, inside the tour takes visitors on a journey through the many generations of people who have dwelled, worked, studied and prayed inside the castle’s magnificent walls.
Visitors will have stories brought to life in spectacular fashion via historical photographs, audio-visual presentations, artefacts, historical costumes and much more.
Stop 6: Lunch in Letterfrack
Just 7 minutes down the road from Kylemore Abbey, the bustling village of Letterfrack is a great choice for lunch. You’ve got some fantastic options too. One of our favourites is the Clover Fox Restaurant and Bar. This traditional pub boasts open fires and a welcoming atmosphere, as well as a varied menu that takes in fresh, local seafood and a wealth of classic Irish dishes.
For more sumptuous seafood, Veldons Seafarer Bar and Restaurant is an excellent choice, and their seafood platter is hard to beat. For a lighter lunch of sandwiches, toasties, quiche, cakes, and coffee, the Hungry Hiker is a must. You can sometimes find street parking in Letterfrack. Otherwise, park up at the Connemara National Park Visitor Centre.
Stop 7: The Sky Road
After enjoying lunch in Letterfrack, it’s back in the car for another incredible drive. The Sky Road is a 16 km loop of the gorgeous Kingstown Peninsula, starting and ending in Clifden, the heart of Connemara. From Clifden, you’ll see signs for the Sky Road, so take your time and enjoy the gorgeous scenery at every turn. If you catch the sunset, even better!
There are a scattering of things to see along the way, including the highest point, which has a handy car park and viewpoint.
Stop 8: Galway for the night
Our final stop for the day takes us to magnificent Galway City. It’s just over an hour away from Clifden through a landscape of bogs, mountains, loughs, and charming villages. Once you arrive in town, check into your accommodation, freshen up, and then prepare to enjoy the sights, sounds, and flavours of Galway City.
Galway is a lively city regardless of the time of year. Here’s some spots worth checking out:
Our dinner recommendations
For dinner, we’ve got a few stellar recommendations: Ard Bia, The Quay Street Kitchen, and Dela. Ard Bia is absolutely fantastic, but you need to book in advance for dinner.
The restaurant has a quirky interior and serves beautifully presented modern dishes.
The Quay Street Kitchen has a great selection of vegan and vegetarian-friendly dishes, and Dela has modern Irish cuisine on the menu.
Live music and trad bars
There’s some mighty pubs in Galway. After dinner, head out for drinks at either Tigh Neachtain or The Crane. Both are traditional pubs with a great atmosphere.
Trad music is an integral part of the city, with heaps of options to choose from. Our favourite spots are Crane Bar (mentioned above) and Tigh Chóilí.
Day 6: Galway City
Today, you’ve got the whole day to explore Galway and its wonderful attractions.
We’re going to recommend that you start your day out in Salthill, by the sea, before coming back into the city and either exploring on foot or via a hop-on/hop-off bus tour.
Stop 1: Breakfast in Salthill
We’d recommend driving over to Salthill (5-minute spin) and start the day off with breakfast at Coco Cafe Salthill or Gourmet Food Parlour Salthill.
Then, enjoy a walk along the famous Salthill Promenade (and kick the wall) before heading back towards the city centre.
Stop 2: Decide how you’ll get around for the day
Now, Galway is a very walkable city, but if it’s raining or if you fancy getting dropped to the ‘main’ attractions, the hop-on/hop-off bus tour is well worth buying.
Regardless of which option you choose, here are some of our favourite sites in Galway City (we’ve listed them in a logical way for you to walk between them).
Stop 3: Galway Cathedral
Galway Cathedral is wonderfully impressive both inside and out. It’s arguably the jewel in the Galway City skyline and you’ll cop it from many places as you stroll around the city.
Interestingly enough, it’s not as old as it looks, and construction on the building was only completed in 1965, earning it the title of ‘the last great stone cathedral to be constructed in Europe’.
The cathedral is free to enter, but visitors are asked for a donation of €2 to help with the building’s upkeep.
Stop 4: Quay Street and the Latin Quarter
Galway’s colourful streets are an absolute joy the ramble along regardless of the time of year.
If you’re walking from the cathedral, you’re a short stroll away from the Latin Quarter and Quay Street where you can have a nosey around.
These streets are alive with the buzz from tourists and locals alike.
Stop 5: The Hall of the Red Earl
One of our favourite places to visit in Galway (especially if it’s raining!) is the Hall of the Red Earl.
The Hall of the Red Earl is one of Galway’s most interesting sites. The ruins date back to the 13th century, with ties to the founding of Galway and the Anglo-Norman De Burgo family.
It was the first municipal building in the city, used for collecting taxes, hosting banquets, and sentencing criminals.
The Hall of the Red Earl was lost as the city grew until 1997, when the ruins were unearthed by archaeologists on behalf of the Office of the Public Works.
Today, you can walk amongst the ruins, view the artefacts, and learn about the hall’s history from the informative displays.
Stop 6: Galway City Museum
The Galway City Museum is just a stone’s throw from the Spanish Arch. It’s one of the best places to learn about Galway’s history, culture, and archaeology, with collections telling the story of prehistoric Galway all the way through to 19th and 20th-century Galway!
The museum has three floors and seven long-term exhibitions, including The Wild Atlantic – Sea Science, and an exhibition on Pádraic Ó Conaire.
It’s free to visit, although donations are always appreciated.
Stop 7: Spanish Arch and the Long Walk
The Spanish Arch is a must-see Galway attraction, dating back to Medieval times. The large stone arch is located on the outskirts of the city centre, overlooking the Claddagh (shore).
It originally housed soldiers who were keeping watch on the city’s Medieval walls. Its nickname is thought to come from the city’s merchant trade with the Spanish, whose ships would often be docked in the area!
From the Spanish Arch, you can take a short stroll alongside the water to what’s known as The Long Walk. You’ll likely have seen pictures of it (it’s a line of colourful buildings right on the water).
Stop 8: Dinner, drinks and live music
Galway is a lively city regardless of the time of year. Here’s some spots worth checking out:
Our dinner recommendations
For dinner, we’ve got a few stellar recommendations: Ard Bia, The Quay Street Kitchen, and Dela. Ard Bia is absolutely fantastic, but you need to book in advance for dinner.
The restaurant has a quirky interior and serves beautifully presented modern dishes.
The Quay Street Kitchen has a great selection of vegan and vegetarian-friendly dishes, and Dela has modern Irish cuisine on the menu.
Live music and trad bars
There’s some mighty pubs in Galway. After dinner, head out for drinks at either Tigh Neachtain or The Crane. Both are traditional pubs with a great atmosphere.
Trad music is an integral part of the city, with heaps of options to choose from. Our favourite spots are Crane Bar (mentioned above) and Tigh Chóilí.
Day 7: The best of Clare
You are heading from Galway to Doolin today, where you will spend two nights. The total drive time is less than two hours, depending on whether you take the coast road. But we have lots of places for you to stop on the way!
Doolin is a lovely village on Ireland’s west coast, known for its trad music. It’s got some lovely places to stay and we’ve popped out top picks below:
Doolin accommodation recommendations
- Popular and central stays: West Haven House (short stroll from McDermott’s Pub) and Cullinan’s Guesthouse (great reviews and right across from Fitzpatrick’s Bar)
- Our favourites: Doolin Inn (a stone’s throw from Fisher Street), Fiddle + Bow Hotel (boutique and very central) and Hotel Doolin (good value and nice and central)
Stop 1: Dunguaire Castle
Dunguaire Castle is a 35-minute drive from Galway. The castle was built in 1520 and belonged to the O’Hynes clan. In 1912, the castle was bought by writer Oliver St. John Gogarty. During his ownership, he restored the castle and hosted several famous writers, including W.B. Yeats and George Bernard Shaw.
The enchanting castle sits on the shores of Galway Bay and has an impressive 75-foot tower. We’d recommend spending at least an hour here, walking the grounds and taking a self-guided tour. According to legend, if you stand at the front gate and ask a question, you’ll have an answer by the end of the day!
Stop 2: Aillwee Cave
Your next stop, Aillwee Cave, is around 27 minutes from Dungaire. Aillwee Cave is a fascinating underground system full of caverns, rock formations, and even the bones of an ancient bear! The site is close to the Birds of Prey Centre, a unique and educational experience involving some of the world’s top birds of prey.
We’d recommend spending at least one hour at this stop, or even longer if you visit both attractions. The Aillwee Cave tour lasts 45 minutes, passing by an underground waterfall and over bridged ravines. At the Burren Birds of Prey Centre, you’ll be able to see predators like owls, vultures, and hawks and possibly watch a 45-minute flying demonstration.
Stop 3: Ballyvaughan for lunch
It’s time to head to the quaint seaside village of Ballyvaughan, only five minutes from Aillwee Cave. Our favourite places to eat in the village are Monks (a brilliant seafood restaurant with handpicked Galway Bay oysters), The Wild Atlantic Lodge (a beautiful restaurant with delicious Irish cuisine), or The Larder (a cosy cafe with sandwiches, soup, and quiches).
Once you’re done, take the scenic coastal drive to Doolin along the R466.
Stop 4: Doolin
The coastal drive from Ballyvaughan to Doolin usually takes around 40 minutes, but we would recommend giving yourself a little extra time.
There are some amazing views of the Burren along the way and you might want to pull over! Once you arrive at Doolin, check into your hotel and rest/freshen up/etc.
Stop 5: Cliffs of Moher
Your next stop, the magnificent Cliffs of Moher, are one of the area’s (if not Ireland’s) most popular attractions.
The cliffs are a 15-minute drive from Doolin, with breathtaking views of the wild Atlantic, Galway Bay, and the Aran Islands.
There’s a visitor centre on-site, as well as 800 metres of paved walkways with viewing areas and the historic O’Brien’s Tower. In our opinion, the visitor centre isn’t really anything that special, but you’ll get access to all three with the Cliffs of Moher Experience.
Stop 6: Dinner, drinks and live music in Doolin
Although it’s fairly small, there’s some great restaurants in Doolin and there’s a handful of mighty pubs in Doolin, too.
Our Doolin food recommendations
We have quite a few recommendations for where to eat in Doolin. These are Riverside Bistro (the seafood pasta and lamb shank are delicious), Anthony’s at Doolin (modern Irish and international cuisine with a great selection of cocktails), and Russell’s Seafood Bar at Fiddle + Bow (amazing local seafood from award-winning chef Viv Kelly).
Our Doolin pub recommendations
Doolin is packed full of traditional Irish pubs which are great for a pint (or a hearty pub meal if the restaurants above aren’t to your liking). Our favourites are McDermot, McGanns, Fitz’s, and Gus O’Connors.
The pubs above are also a good place to catch some live music, as well as Anthony’s at Doolin.
Day 8: Inis Mor
Today’s a big day, as you’ll be heading off to explore Inis Mor, a beautiful island off the west coast of Ireland and one of the Aran Islands, a chain of limestone islands rich in history.
Inis Mor is the largest of the Aran Islands at 31 km², with a population of around 800 people. Inis Mor’s residents are within the Irish-speaking Gaeltacht, and you’ll notice there’s a strong sense of Irish culture. The landscapes are incredible, with miles of stone walls and rugged coastline.
It’s going to be an adventure-filled day packed with walking and cycling, so make sure to wear appropriate clothes and pack for all types of weather!
Grab a hearty breakfast where you’re staying, or check out the Doolin Cafe or Gus O’Connor’s Pub.
Stop 1: Doolin Pier
There are two ferry services running to Inis Mor: the Doolin Ferry Co. and Doolin2Aran Ferries. We’ve used them both and are happy to recommend either!
The journey is generally 35 minutes long (via express boat) and the ferries run daily services. Just make sure to book your ticket in advance.
Stop 2: Arrive on Inis Mor and rent a bike or get on the bus
We recommend either renting a bike (preferably an eBike), or if you don’t feel like being too active today, hopping on a mini bus tour when you arrive on the island.
Aran Bike Hire is right in front of the pier on the right and the most convenient place to hire a bike. They have a huge range of bikes on offer, such as mountain bikes (€20), electric bikes (€40), tandem bikes (€40), and children’s bikes (€10).
Inis Mor Bike Hire is further past the pier next to the tourist information centre. They have a range of regular bikes and ebikes, contact them via their website for up-to-date rates.
eBike Self Guided Tours is the furthest away, a six-minute walk from the pier. Their standard day rate is €20.
Stop 3: The Seal Colony
From the pier, it’s 4.1km to the Seal Colony Viewing Point (around 15 minutes cycling). The island is home to a population of Atlantic Seals who live close to Kilmurvey Beach.
The viewpoint is easy to find, and during low tide, you can spot as many as a dozen seals sunbathing on the beach and rocks.
Stop 4: Dún Aonghasa
After you’ve seen the colony, hop on your bike and cycle the 4.2km to the Dún Aonghasa Visitor Centre (around 10 minutes).
Dún Aonghasa is a prehistoric hill fort sitting on the edge of an 87-metre cliff. It’s not clear exactly how old the fort is, but parts of the fort date back to the Bronze Age and Iron Age. It’s the biggest fort on the Aran Islands with three impressive drystone defence walls.
You’ll need to park your bike at the ‘bike parking’ area (here on Google Maps), then walk the final 1km on foot.
There’s an incline approaching the fort and the last section is on rocky ground, so good shoes are a must. There’s no barrier at the edge of the cliff, so make sure to take extra care close to the edge.
Please note: The walk out to Dún Aonghasa may not suit those with low levels of fitness. If you don’t fancy the walk, head for a cup of coffee in the gorgeous Teach Nan Phaidi nearby.
Stop 5: The Worm Hole
Also known as the Serpent’s Lair or ‘Poll na bPeist’, the Worm Hole is a one-of-a-kind natural tidal pool! What makes it so unique?
Well, its rectangular shape is 100% natural. It was featured in the 2017 Red Bull Cliff Diving Series and although it’s a little hard to find, it’s well worth the extra effort.
From Dún Aonghasa, the best way to visit The Worm Hole is to (carefully) make your way east along the cliffs. It’s roughly 1.6km with painted rocks marking the way.
Even though it may be tempting to go for a swim, we highly advise against it as there’s no easy way to get out of the pool if you get into trouble. The tidal pool also contains underwater currents, and depending on the tide and weather, waves can crash over the top.
Stop 6: Lunch
After the trek back to your bike, you must be hungry. For a small island, there are plenty of places to eat and some of our top picks are Joe Watty’s Bar, Bayview Restaurant, and Madigan’s Bar & Restaurant at the Aran Islands Hotel.
Both Joe Watty’s Bar and Bayview Restaurant are a good pick for families, with hearty Irish dishes, delicious seafood, and a children’s menu. Madigan’s Bar & Restaurant has a seasonal menu with light bites and a lovely outdoor seating area overlooking the water.
Stop 7: Black Fort
Dún Dúchathair, or the Black Fort, is an ancient fort 2.7km (roughly eight minutes cycling) from Kilronan. The fort is near a cliff edge and it’s thought that it gets its nickname thanks to the cliff’s dark limestone which is characteristic of the area.
The site has terraced stone walls that surround the Clocháns (stone dwellings). Similarly to Dún Aonghasa, it’s not clear just how old the Black Fort is, but it’s believed to be built around the same time.
The way is clearly signposted and easy to find, but before you reach the fort, the paved road ends and the terrain becomes rockier. Most people choose to leave their bikes at the side of the road and proceed on foot. There’s no barrier or fence at the cliff edge, so once again, take extra care close to the cliffs.
Stop 8: Back to Doolin for dinner, drinks and live music
Get the ferry back to Doolin and chill for the evening.
Although it’s fairly small, there’s some great restaurants in Doolin and there’s a handful of mighty pubs in Doolin, too.
Our Doolin food recommendations
We have quite a few recommendations for where to eat in Doolin. These are Riverside Bistro (the seafood pasta and lamb shank are delicious), Anthony’s at Doolin (modern Irish and international cuisine with a great selection of cocktails), and Russell’s Seafood Bar at Fiddle + Bow (amazing local seafood from award-winning chef Viv Kelly).
Our Doolin pub recommendations
Doolin is packed full of traditional Irish pubs which are great for a pint (or a hearty pub meal if the restaurants above aren’t to your liking). Our favourites are McDermot, McGanns, Fitz’s, and Gus O’Connors.
The pubs above are also a good place to catch some live music, as well as Anthony’s at Doolin.
Day 9: Limerick City
Today we are heading from Doolin to Limerick, where we will spend two nights.
Grab a hearty breakfast before you check out or find somewhere nearby to eat. Then, make sure the car is fueled up and hit the road!
Recommended accommodation in Limerick
- Budget: Woodfield House Hotel (15-minute walk from the city with excellent reviews) and Shelbourne House (cosy spot 20 minutes walk from the castle)
- Mid-range: Limerick City Hotel (very central hotel near the river) and The Bedford (very central boutique townhouse with exceptional reviews)
- Luxury: The Savoy Hotel (central, boutique 5-star) and The George (central spot on O’Connell Street in Limerick city centre)
Stop 1: Bunratty Castle and Folk Park
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park sit on 26 acres of lovely countryside around one hour from Doolin (grab your skip-the-line ticket online before you go).
Visiting the Folk Park feels like stepping back in time as the 19th-century buildings and streets have been recreated to resemble what they would have originally looked like.
The park has over 30 buildings, including village shops, rural farmhouses, and Bunratty House, a beautiful Georgian home.
You can also take a tour of 15th-century Bunratty Castle, the last of four castles built on the site. However, prior to the castles being built, the site was home to a Viking trading camp in 970.
Stop 2: Lunch in Limerick
Welcome to Limerick! It’s around 20 minutes from the folk park, and once you arrive, park the car and head out to explore the city on foot.
It’s probably close to lunchtime by now and we’ve got a couple of suggestions for you. We usually head to Coqbull, The Buttery, or the Hook and Ladder when we’re in the city. Coqbull is a casual dining restaurant serving up top-notch burgers and wings. The Buttery is our go-to for brunch, and the Hook and Ladder (the one on Sarsfield Street) has delicious sandwiches and a mouth-watering vegan burger.
Stop 3: King John’s Castle
Head off to King John’s Castle, a 10-minute walk from the centre of the city. The 13th-century castle sits on King’s Island, on the banks of the River Shannon. The castle is in fantastic condition and is one of Europe’s best preserved-Norman castles.
King John’s Castle was built under the orders of King John, the “Lord of Ireland” and Richard the Lionheart’s brother. It was built between 1200 and 1212, with numerous repairs and extensions over its 800-year history.
The castle was a military stronghold with solid curtain walls, turrets, and strong fortifications. However, despite this, it sustained heavy damage during the 1642 siege of Limerick (the first of five Limerick sieges during the 17th century). There’s a fantastic exhibition on the siege inside the castle if you’d like to learn more.
Most people spend around one and a half hours visiting the castle and visitor centre. You can have a look at the interactive exhibits, try on historical costumes, and in the summer, play Medieval games in the courtyard!
Stop 4: St Mary’s Cathedral
The next stop is St. Mary’s Cathedral. It’s a three-minute walk from King John’s Castle, and you probably passed it on your way to the castle. The cathedral was founded in 1168, making it even older than King John’s Castle and the oldest building in Limerick that’s still in use today!
The cathedral contains six chapels, but if you’re pressed for time, the Lady Chapel is a must-visit. The Lady Chapel contains its original pre-reformation altar, which is four metres long and weighs three tons. During the mid-1600s, the altar was removed and dumped by Oliver Cromwell’s troops when they captured the city. But, by some miracle, it was recovered in the 1960s and reinstated to its rightful place.
Another highlight of St. Mary’s Cathedral is its misericords (small wooden carvings). They are the only complete set in Ireland and the only remaining pre-Elizabethan carvings.
Stop 5: Treaty City Brewery
When you’re ready, head to Treaty City Brewery on Nicholas St, right by King John’s Castle.
While Ireland is known internationally for the black stuff, there is also an incredible craft brewery scene as well, and Treaty City is one of the many craft breweries that have popped up around the country.
Take a brewery tour or enjoy a pint in this unique brewery that is housed in what was once a derelict building.
Stop 6: Dinner, drinks and live music
There’s some excellent restaurants in Limerick and there’s some mighty old-school pubs in Limerick, too.
Our Limerick food recommendations
Our absolute favourite spot for dinner is the Curragower. It’s right on the banks of the River Shannon with beautiful views of King John’s Castle across the water.
Grab some delicious pub grub like the roasted lamb rump or the lightly breaded scampi, then stick around for some pints after dinner.
Otherwise, we also like SpitJack (the rotisserie pork belly is a customer favourite) and The Locke (they have a delicious steak and ale pie and great vegetarian options).
Our Limerick pub recommendations
For drinks, again, we love the Curragower but Tom Collins is another lovely pub.
Another great trad pub is Nancy Blakes and depending on the night, they might have some music on.
However, if you don’t mind heading a little out of the city centre, then Charlie Malones is a must-visit. In our opinion, it’s one of Limerick’s best-kept secrets, with a real old-school pub vibe.
Limerick is a great city for trad music. The Locke often has music and even dancing on some nights if you’re lucky! Dolans is also great, but it’s a short walk from the city centre.
Day 10: Limerick, Tipperary and Clare
It’s day 10 of your 20 days, and today, you’ve got an action-packed day exploring Limerick, Tipperary, and Clare!
Since it will be a long day, grab a hearty breakfast at your accommodation or in the city. We personally love the Hook and Ladder. They have several locations in the city so you can pick the one closest to your accommodation.
Stop 1: The Hunt Museum
We are going to start the day out at the Hunt Museum. Again, you probably already passed it on your way to the castle yesterday.
The Hunt Museum was established after John and Gertrude Hunt decided to donate items from their personal collection to the people of Ireland.
The museum has a large collection with over 2,500 artefacts, including pieces from Ancient Egypt and Stone-Age Ireland.
Highlights of the collection include works by Picasso and dresses by famous Irish fashion designer Sybil Connolly.
Recently, the museum launched the “Museum in a Garden”, a beautiful garden dotted with 3D printed replicas of historical artefacts (get your ticket online here).
Stop 2: Killaloe for coffee, a stroll and lunch
Our next stop is the gorgeous little town of Killaloe, which is an absolute joy to saunter around (and it’s only a 30-minute drive from Limerick!).
Grab yourself a coffee to go from Bless Cafe or Derg House Cafe and go for a little wander through its streets and down by the river where you’ll see the boat cruises take off.
If you are looking for a bite to eat, head to The Piper’s Inn or Flanagan’s on the Lake.
Stop 3: Lough Gur
From Killaloe, it’s a 40-minute drive to Lough Gur. This almost horseshoe-shaped lake is one of the most important archaeological sites in the country, with numerous stone-age monuments (more on that later!).
Have a wander around the Lough Gur Visitor Centre, where you can learn over 6,000 years of history through the interactive exhibitions. Then, if you feel up to it, take a pleasant stroll around the lough, taking in the peaceful atmosphere.
A 6-minute drive from the centre, the Lough Gur Wedge Tomb, also called the ‘Giant’s Grave’, is a well-preserved wedge tomb that was excavated in 1938.
You’ll find the ancient tomb on the slopes of a small hill, roughly a 3-minute walk on the right-hand side of the road from a small lay-by where you can park.
On your way back to Limerick, stop by the Lough Gur Stone Circle (a short 3-minutes from the wedge tomb). Also known as the Grange Stone Circle, it’s the largest stone circle in Ireland, stretching 45 metres across, with stones of up to 2.8 metres high!
Stop 4: Back to Limerick for the night
Once you’re ready to head back to Limerick, jump in the car and drive the 24 minutes back to the city.
There’s some excellent restaurants in Limerick and there’s some mighty old-school pubs in Limerick, too.
Our Limerick food recommendations
Our absolute favourite spot for dinner is the Curragower. It’s right on the banks of the River Shannon with beautiful views of King John’s Castle across the water.
Grab some delicious pub grub like the roasted lamb rump or the lightly breaded scampi, then stick around for some pints after dinner.
Otherwise, we also like SpitJack (the rotisserie pork belly is a customer favourite) and The Locke (they have a delicious steak and ale pie and great vegetarian options).
Our Limerick pub recommendations
For drinks, again, we love the Curragower but Tom Collins is another lovely pub.
Another great trad pub is Nancy Blakes and depending on the night, they might have some music on. However, if you don’t mind heading a little out of the city centre, then Charlie Malones is a must-visit.
In our opinion, it’s one of Limerick’s best-kept secrets, with a real old-school pub vibe.
Limerick is a great city for trad music. The Locke often has music and even dancing on some nights if you’re lucky! Dolans is also great, but it’s a short walk from the city centre.
Day 11: Cork City
We hope you enjoyed your stay in Kerry. Today we head off to Cork City, where we will be staying for 2 nights.
Grab something to eat before you set off, either at your accommodation or the restaurants we recommended earlier.
Recommended accommodation in Cork City
- Budget: Sheilas Tourist Hostel (no-fuss hostel near the train station) + Redclyffe Guesthouse (nice and central with great reviews)
- Mid-range: The Metropole (central with superb reviews) and Hotel Isaacs (in the Victorian Quarter – top-notch rooms and reviews)
- Luxury: Imperial Hotel (stunning and very central hotel) and Hayfield Manor (beautiful, boutique, city centre 5-star)
Stop 1: Cork City Gaol
On your way from Limerick, make a stop at Cork City Gaol before you head to your hotel and check-in. It’s around 1.5 hours of driving, and we suggest you park on the street.
Cork City Gaol is a fascinating attraction in a castle-like building that opened in 1824 and closed in 1923. It was home to male and female prisoners who had committed crimes within the city boundaries (those who committed crimes outside were sent to the Cork County Gaol across the river).
The goal was operating through Ireland’s turbulent Civil War, housing male and female Republican (anti-treaty) prisoners, including famous Irish Author Frank O’Connor.
Other famous people who were imprisoned in the gaol include Countess Markievicz, John Sarsfield Casey, James Mountaine, and Brian Dillon.
The Cork City Gaol became a museum in 1993 and is now a popular attraction in the city. You’ll learn about the prisoner’s stories, see the cells, and learn about the harsh 19th-century penal system.
Stop 2: Cork City
Drive the 10 minutes in the city, then head to your hotel to drop off your things and freshen up (if you’ve been able to check in early). We recommend leaving your car behind as our stops for the day are easy to reach on foot, and there is little parking available.
Stop 3: Shandon Bell Tower
Shandon Bell Tower is an iconic landmark in Cork City and a must-visit attraction about 10 minutes from the city centre.
The tower is a part of the Church of St. Anne, which was built in 1722. The church was built to replace an old church on the same site that was destroyed during the Seige of Cork in 1690.
You’ll need to pay a small fee to get to the top of the tower, but from the top, you’ll have wonderful views of the city, and you’ll be able to ring the bells!
Stop 4: The Butter Museum
The Cork Butter Museum is definitely more on the unique side as far as attractions go, but since Cork used to have the largest butter market in Europe, it seems appropriate to visit.
The Cork butter industry is a large part of why Irish butter is so popular to this day.
The museum is a 1-2-minute walk from the bell tower, with some interesting historical info about the city as well as the butter industry.
Stop 5: Lunch in the Cornmarket
Walk the short 6 minutes to the Cornmarket for lunch. Be mindful that the next stop is also a foodie destination, so don’t fill up too much!
We recommend popping into Bodega for delicious pub grub, the Cornstore if you’re after something a little more upmarket, or Rising Suns if you’re craving a pizza.
Stop 6: The English Market
The English Market is only 4 minutes away from the Cornmarket. It’s a beautiful covered market with impressive mid-19th-century architecture.
Its name, “English Market”, was to help distinguish it from the Cornmarket, formerly known as the “Irish Market”.
The market dates back to 1788, making it one of the oldest covered markets in Europe.
Aside from its history and beautiful architecture, the English Market is known for its delicious food, and you can get everything from artisanal olives to homemade jams.
Stop 7: Elizabeth Fort
Once you’re finished perusing the market, walk the 10 minutes over to Elizabeth Fort. The star-shaped fort dates back to the 17th century and currently sits off Barrack Street in Cork City.
The fort was originally on high ground, but over the years, the city has built up around it, although it still has fantastic views over Cork.
General admission is free, but if you’d like to learn more about this historic fortification, guided tours are offered at 1pm every day (€5), and audio guides are available in multiple languages (€3).
Stop 8: St Fin Barre’s Cathedral
St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral is just a short walk over from Elizabeth Fort. It costs €6 to enter and it’s worth every euro. The Gothic-revival cathedral is magnificent, with three showy spies, impressive stone arches, and gargoyles decorating the outer walls.
Inside, it’s even showier, with stone archways lining the sides of the nave and a total of 74 windows, each with individually designed stained-glass panels. However, our favourite part is the sanctuary ceiling – look up when you’re inside and you’ll see why!
The cathedral took 14 years to build from the groundbreaking (1865) to the consecration (1879). It sits on top of a 7th-century Christian site, which is said to have been founded by St. Finbarr.
Stop 9: Dinner, drinks and live music
You’ve an endless supply of pubs and restaurants to choose from in Cork. Here’s a few of our favourites:
Our Cork food recommendations
There are heaps of brilliant restaurants in Cork City, but our personal favourites are Market Lane, Old Town Whiskey Bar at Bodega, and Cornstore.
Market Lane has a delicious-sounding menu featuring Irish favourites like pan-fried hake with braised leeks, smoked mussels, and baby potatoes.
Head to Old Town Whiskey Bar for burgers, salads, and traditional pub grub, and Cornstore for steaks and seafood.
Great Cork City pubs
There’s some glorious pubs in Cork, too. For drinks, check out Mutton Lane (a quirky traditional pub), The Oval (a historic pub named after its unique oval ceiling), and Castle Inn (a traditional family-run pub with a great atmosphere).
There are some great spots for hearing some trad music in Cork. Our top choices are Sin E and The Corner House.
Day 12: Kinsale
Today we are exploring the coastal area just south of Cork City and the village of Kinsale. There’s a bit of walking today between attractions, so make sure to wear suitable footwear and bring plenty of water.
Before you head out, grab some breakfast at your accommodation or take a look for somewhere to eat at the English Market.
Stop 1: Lusitania Monument
The Lusitania Museum is a 45-minute drive from Cork City. It’s inside an old Signal Tower, The Old Head Signal Tower, one of 81 built from Dublin to Donegal. The ground floor of the tower tells the story of Ireland’s Signal Towers and the area’s ancient history.
On the first floor, you’ll find exhibitions and artefacts relating to the RMS Lusitania, which was tragically torpedoed by a German U Boat during WWI. The boat sank in only 18 minutes, resulting in many casualties.
Once you’ve learned the story of the RMS Lusitania, head outside to the Lusitania Memorial Garden to look at the powerful 20-metre sculpture, which includes the names of the lives lost on May 7th, 1915. There are also beautiful views over Kinsale Head.
Stop 2: St Multose Church
Drive back the 20 minutes back to Kinsale and park in the Main Town Car Park. If it’s full, there is plenty of room on the street nearby. You’re going to be heading to the next few stops on foot from here, so make sure to pay for plenty of parking.
Stroll 5 minutes up to St. Multose Church is thought to be one of the oldest churches belonging to the Church of Ireland! It’s a cruciform church with a crypt that dates back to 1190, although the entire church is built on a 6th-century ecclesiastical settlement.
In the 1750s, the church underwent major additions. However, the church’s large bell tower is a part of the original Norman structure. The church’s graveyard contains 16th-19th-century monuments and mausoleums, as well as the graves of unidentified victims of the RMS Lusitania sinking.
Stop 3: Cosy Cafe and Kinsale
If you’re ready for a mid-afternoon coffee, then we suggest stopping by the Cosy Cafe. It’s right across the street from St. Multose, so you really can’t miss it!
You’ve got a little time for a wander if you feel like it, so why not take your coffee to go and explore the gorgeous town of Kinsale?
You can pass by Desmond Castle (it’s most likely closed by you can admire it from the outside), pick up a book from Bookstór (a lovely independent bookstore selling new and second-hand books), or do some shopping in one of the town’s boutique shops.
Stop 4: Charles Fort
Hop in the car and drive 5 minutes to Charles Fort. Charles Fort is the country’s largest military installation.
The huge star-shaped building dates back to the late 17th century and, over the years, has seen some fearsome battles.
The fort survived a 13-day siege during the Williamite wars in 1690 and a battle during the Civil War in the 1920s. Make sure to head to the ramparts for the stunning view over Kinsale Harbour.
Stop 5: Lunch at The Bulman
The Bulman is a wonderful restaurant right next to an idyllic little harbour.
They have a varied menu, with everything from Thai green chicken curry to local BBQ pork ribs with wasabi slaw. Since it’s one of the last days of your trip, consider treating yourself to grilled lobster, a customer favourite!
The restaurant kitchen is open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 12:30pm. They are closed on Sundays and Mondays.
The roads to The Bullman from Charles Fort are quite narrow, so we recommend leaving the car at the fort and enjoying the 5-minute stroll to the restaurant.
Stop 6: The trip to Cobh
After lunch, hop in the car and make your way to Cobh, a historical coastal town on an island in Cork City harbour. There are two ways to get there, you can either a) go via Cork City and take the motorway, or b) drive to Passage West and take a ferry across.
The ferry in Passage West leaves from Glenbrook Wharf with non-stop crossings from 6:30am – 9:30pm every day (times may change).
We’d recommend either parking in the Cathedral Car Park here or on the street nearby, but it’s a bit of a downhill walk (around 7 minutes) to the Titanic Experience.
Stop 7: Titanic Experience
Cobh was the last stop of the Titanic before it departed for New York. The Titanic Experience gives visitors an immersive insight into what life was like aboard the Titanic.
It includes a 30-minute tour where you’ll experience an incredible cinematographic experience of the ship sinking.
Aside from the tour, the experience has several exhibitions telling the personal stories of the passengers, the role of the RMS Carpathia in rescuing survivors, and much more.
Stop 8: St. Coleman’s Cathedral
If you have the time (and energy) to walk up the hill to the cathedral. It’s a lovely building and the views over Cork Harbour are wonderful (this is where parking near the cathedral comes in handy as you’re basically walking back to the car!).
Cobh Cathedral, or St. Coleman’s Cathedral, is one of Cobh’s iconic landmarks. It’s a gorgeous cathedral with large stained-glass windows, intricate carvings, and an impressive 90-metre spire that dominates the town’s skyline.
It took 51 years from the first cornerstone being laid to the cathedral’s consecration. Building the cathedral was a mammoth project and cost well over the initial budget. It’s just as beautiful on the inside as it is from the outside, with large stone arches, pillars, and red marble shrines.
Stop 9: Back to Cork City for the night
From Cobh, it’s at least 30 minutes back to Cork City. You can either take the ferry or the motorway, but personally, we love the drive from Passage West into the city.
Our Cork food recommendations
There are heaps of brilliant restaurants in Cork City, but our personal favourites are Market Lane, Old Town Whiskey Bar at Bodega, and Cornstore.
Market Lane has a delicious-sounding menu featuring Irish favourites like pan-fried hake with braised leeks, smoked mussels, and baby potatoes.
Head to Old Town Whiskey Bar for burgers, salads, and traditional pub grub, and Cornstore for steaks and seafood.
Great Cork City pubs
There’s some glorious pubs in Cork, too. For drinks check out Mutton Lane (a quirky traditional pub), The Oval (a historic pub named after its unique oval ceiling), and Castle Inn (a traditional family-run pub with a great atmosphere).
There are some great spots for hearing some trad music in Cork, our top choices are Sin E and The Corner House.
Day 13: The Copper Coast
Today you are checking out of your Cork accommodation and heading to Waterford City, where you will spend the next three nights. We have a full day planned and will be heading towards Waterford via the scenic route, the beautiful Copper Coast!
There are some wonderful beaches on today’s agenda, so if you’re on this trip during the summer, we’d recommend packing some swimming clothes in case you want to take a dip. Or, if this is a winter trip, we suggest bringing some extra layers to protect you from the wind.
Grab a big breakfast from your accommodation or nearby. Alchemy on Barrack St does a great cup of coffee and has nice pastries as well.
Please note that we do not have a lunch stop planned for today so make sure to grab a sandwich or some snacks in Cork before you hit the road.
Recommended accommodation in/near Waterford City
- Budget: The Vee B&B (cheap and cheerful and a 20-minute walk from main attractions) and Diamond Hill Country House (20-minute drive from the city with great reviews)
- Mid-range: Granville Hotel (cosy and super central in the city) and Tower Hotel & Leisure Centre (great views and right in the city)
- Luxury: Faithlegg Hotel (stunning hotel 20-minute drive from the city)
Stop 1: Youghal
Our first stop of the day is Youghal, which is an hour from the city. Once you arrive, make your way to Youghal Front Strand Beach, a lovely sandy beach with a nice walk called the Youghal Eco Boardwalk.
Put ‘Youghal Eco Boardwalk’ into Google Maps to find your way there. The wood-panelled walk is a 1.9km stroll between Claycastle Beach all the way to Redbarn Beach. Along the way, you’ll find public toilets and more often than not, some coffee vans (if you’re hankering for a mid-morning coffee).
If you aren’t up for a walk today, consider checking out Youghal Clock Gate tower which is pictured above.
Stop 2: Stradbally
Stradbally Cove is a 30-minute drive away and is an incredibly scenic beach and a good place for a picnic. This is one of our favourite beaches in the area thanks to its small size and sheltered waters. The cove is long and narrow, flanked by lush green cliffs.
Stop 3: Bunmahon Beach
Your next stop is Bunmahon Beach, a lovely sandy beach 10 minutes away. The beach is backed by sand dunes, which are home to a wide range of plants and animals.
It’s a popular spot for watersports, and if you’re lucky, you might spot some surfers cruising on the waves!
Stop 4: Tankardstown Copper Mine
Tankardstown Copper Mine is a 4-minute drive from Bunmahon. It’s a really cool ruin of an old copper mine that’s worth checking out from a distance. It’s close to the edge of a cliff, so you’ll also get some stunning views of the ocean.
Stop 5: Dunabrattin Head
It’s just a short 8-minute drive to Dunabrattin Head, where you can take a little stroll to admire the views. Just be extra careful near the cliff edge.
Stop 6: Annestown Beach
This is another gorgeous beach that’s popular with swimmers and surfers. It’s especially beautiful at low tide when its rocky islands and arches are exposed.
Stop 7: Dunhill Castle
Hop back in the car and drive the 9 minutes to Dunhill Castle. Parts of the castle ruins date back to the early 1200s. However, there’s evidence that the hilltop was used even earlier for a Celtic fort.
The castle has a rich backstory, having been founded by the la Poer family, who attacked nearby Waterford on several occasions throughout the 1300 to 1400s. Sadly, by the 1700s, it began falling into disrepair, with the east wall collapsing altogether during a storm in 1912.
Stop 8: Kilfarrasy Beach
Next up is Kilfarrasy Beach, a 9-minute drive away. Kilfarrasy Beach is stunning, with golden sand and beautiful blue waters, flanked by cliffs on either side.
Stop 9: The Metal Man
The Metal Man is about 9 minutes away from Kilfarrasay. You can’t get that close to it as it’s on private land, but the drive out is really beautiful, and it’s just a really cool landscape with flat-topped cliffs.
Stop 10: Tramore Beach
Our last stop of the day is Tramore Beach, a gorgeous 5km golden sand spit that juts out into the ocean. If you’re about ready for another coffee, why not stop by Moe’s Cafe to grab a cup to go before strolling along the promenade?
Stop 11: Waterford City for the night
It’s time to go to Waterford City for the night. It’s roughly 20 minutes away from Tramore.
Our dinner recommendations
There’s a heap of great restaurants in Waterford. Head to Momo if you’re in the mood for an eclectic mix of international dishes, with things like Thai yellow curry and Masala cauliflower steak on the menu.
Bodega is a great choice if you’re after a casual dining experience, with some delicious Mediterranean-inspired dishes on offer.
Finally, if you’re after modern European cuisine, then we recommend enjoying dinner at Sheehan’s. You’ll find classics like burgers and steaks, as well as daily specials like chicken and chorizo pie.
Live music and trad bars
There’s some mighty pubs in Waterford. A couple of our favourites are J. & K. Walsh Victorian Spirit Grocer (a fully-preserved Victorian bar) and An Uisce Beatha (an old-school pub with a great selection of craft beers).
For live music, head to Katty Beary, Tullys Bar, and An Uisce Beatha (which we mentioned above).
Day 14: Waterford City
It’s day 14 of your 20 days in Ireland itinerary, and today we are going to spend the day exploring the oldest city in Ireland.
Grab some breakfast at your accommodation or nearby. Cafe Lucia does a great breakfast.
Stop 1: King of the Vikings
As we mentioned earlier, Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland, dating back as far as 914 A.D., when it was originally a Viking settlement. King of the Vikings is a really cool virtual reality experience that shows visitors what the city would have been like when it was inhabited by Vikings.
You’ll find it inside the Viking Triangle, on the south bank of the Suir River, which was named after the 1,000-year-old Viking walls that used to surround the area. The experience takes place inside a reconstructed Viking house that sits in the centre of 13th-century Franciscan Friary ruins. The virtual reality experience lasts for 30 minutes, and since it’s only a small space with enough room for 10 people only, pre-booking is advised.
Stop 2: Reginald’s Tower
Your next stop, Reginald’s Tower, is only a three-minute walk down the road from the King of the Vikings. The tower is the oldest civic building in the country and has been in continuous use for over 800 years!
Originally, a wooden Viking fort stood on the site, but later on, the Anglo-Normans replaced it with the impressive stone tower. The tower was part of ancient Waterford and is thought to be one of the points of the Viking Triangle, alongside Turgesius Tower and St. Martins Castle.
Inside, you’ll find a part of the Waterford Museum of Treasures, which focuses primarily on Waterford’s Viking heritage (you’ll be visiting the other parts later!).
Stop 3: Lunch
It’s probably around lunchtime now, so grab a bite to eat somewhere in the city. We suggest checking out The Granary or McLeary’s Restaurant.
The Granary is a charming quay-side cafe offering homemade light bites such as quiches, salads, and sandwiches. McLeary’s Restaurant (not to be confused with McLeary’s Cafe, although this is another lovely spot a 15-minute walk from the Viking Triangle) is a good choice if you’re looking for a late lunch. They open at 1pm, offering Irish dishes like slow-roast lamb shank and fish and chips.
Stop 4: Waterford Treasures: Medieval Museum
It’s time to visit another branch of the Waterford Treasures Museum, which is just a short walk from your previous stops. The Medieval Museum is the only purpose-built Medieval museum in the country, with a focus on the Medieval heritage of Waterford.
It’s an interesting museum with a great collection and some really good exhibits. Inside, you’ll find the oldest wine vault in Ireland, the only surviving full set of Medieval vestments in Europe, and the earliest gold ring brooch in Europe.
If you are a big museum fan, then it’s worth purchasing the Freedom of Waterford Value Pass, which gives access to five attractions within Waterford’s Viking Triangle.
Stop 5: Waterford Treasures: The Bishop’s Palace
Your final sightseeing stop of the day is the final Waterford Treasures museum, The Bishop’s Palace. This museum is a short three-minute walk from the Medieval Museum and well worth a visit.
It’s a cool museum set inside a magnificent 18th-century townhouse, with guided tours led by guides in historical costume! The historic home is decorated with period decor, showcasing 18th-century furniture, glass, art, and silverware. A highlight of the collection is the Penrose Decanter, the oldest piece of Waterford Crystal in the world, dating back to 1789.
Stop 6: Dinner, drinks and live music
You’ve a fine evening of eating and sipping ahead of you in the ancient city of Waterford.
Here’s a couple of recommendations to get you going!
Our dinner recommendations
There’s a heap of great restaurants in Waterford. Head to Momo if you’re in the mood for an eclectic mix of international dishes, with things like Thai yellow curry and Masala cauliflower steak on the menu.
Bodega is a great choice if you’re after a casual dining experience, with some delicious Mediterranean-inspired dishes on offer.
Finally, if you’re after modern European cuisine, then we recommend enjoying dinner at Sheehan’s. You’ll find classics like burgers and steaks, as well as daily specials like chicken and chorizo pie.
Live music and trad bars
There’s some mighty pubs in Waterford. A couple of our favourites are J. & K. Walsh Victorian Spirit Grocer (a fully-preserved Victorian bar) and An Uisce Beatha (an old-school pub with a great selection of craft beers).
For live music, head to Katty Beary, Tullys Bar, and An Uisce Beatha (which we mentioned above).
Day 15: Kilkenny
Today, you’re going to be exploring Kilkenny, a lovely Medieval town north of Waterford, where you’ll also be enjoying dinner tonight.
Grab some breakfast where you’re staying or nearby, then hit the road.
Stop 1: Jerpoint Abbey
Before you head over to Kilkenny, your first stop of the day is Jerpoint Abbey, a 12th-century Cistercian abbey roughly 30 minutes from Waterford.
The abbey is thought to be one of the best examples in the country of a Medieval Cistercian abbey, with both Romanesque and Gothic influences that reflect the transition of architectural styles during the period it was built.
Jerpoint Abbey is most famous for its beautifully detailed stone sculptures that you’ll find throughout the monastery. These date back to between the 13th and 16th centuries and include mensa tombs and other effigies.
Stop 2: Kilkenny City
From the abbey, it’s a 21-minute drive to Kilkenny, where you’re going to park the car. For the rest of the day, you’ll be exploring on foot.
Stop 3: Medieval Mile Museum
You’ll find the Medieval Mile Museum inside Kilkenny’s former St. Mary’s Church. It’s a really cool spot, as you’ll learn all about the town’s 800-year history in a modern museum based out of a 13th-century church.
Inside there are cutting-edge exhibits like the 3 Lives, 3 Deaths, One Life Unlived, which used forensic analysis to reveal the secrets of Kilkenny’s former residents, as well as Medieval artefacts and relics from the old church.
Stop 4: Lunch
Our go-to spots are Aroi (a fantastic Asian fusion restaurant that opens from 12pm) or Petronella (a great spot for a light lunch or comfort food like steaks and chicken goujons, again, they open from 12pm).
Stop 5: Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny Castle is in the heart of Kilkenny on the banks of the River Nore. The castle dates back to 1195, although the present castle is primarily a Victorian remodel, making it rather unique as far as Irish castles go. When it was built, the Norman castle, which was constructed by Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke (also known as ‘Strongbow’), would have been a key defensive building.
The castle has a spectacular and lavish interior which is accessible via guided or self-guided tours. The castle grounds are equally as beautiful, with 21 acres of parklands that are free to visit. It’s well worth taking a little stroll along one of the trails and viewing the castle from the outside.
Stop 6: Smithwick’s Brewery Experience
The Smithwick’s Brewery Experience is a short eight-minute walk from Kilkenny Castle. Smithwick’s Irish Ales can be traced back to 1710, and today, it’s one of Ireland’s most popular beers.
The guided tour of the brewery lasts roughly one hour, with information about the beer’s history, the brewing process, and a free tasting at the end (a delicious Smithwick’s pint).
Stop 7: Dinner in Kilkenny
In Kilkenny, we recommend Zuni and Ristorante Rinuccini.
Head to Zuni for modern Irish cuisine like 62 degree poached egg and wild mushroom (served with potato foam, crispy onions, and brioche) or sous vide Irish lamb rump (served with butter wilted kale, rosemary potatoes, and parsnip puree).
Ristorante Rincunni is our go-to for authentic Italian cuisine, serving up classics like homemade ricotta and spinach ravioli as well as dishes like parmesan risotto served with braised short rib of Kilkenny beef.
Stop 8: Back to Waterford for the night
Drive back to Waterford for the night. It’s around 40 minutes from Kilkenny.
Live music and trad bars
There’s some mighty pubs in Waterford. A couple of our favourites are J. & K. Walsh Victorian Spirit Grocer (a fully-preserved Victorian bar) and An Uisce Beatha (an old-school pub with a great selection of craft beers).
For live music, head to Katty Beary, Tullys Bar, and An Uisce Beatha (which we mentioned above).
Day 16: Dublin City
It’s time to say goodbye to Waterford, as today you’re making your way to Dublin. You’ll be spending three nights here as you explore the city and nearby attractions.
Before you head off on your trip, grab a hearty breakfast from where you’re staying, or venture out into the city for some grub.
We’ve got some recommendations on where to stay in Dublin below, so check them out if you don’t have anywhere in mind already:
Recommended accommodation in Dublin
- Budget: Abigail’s Hostel (Temple Bar), Jacobs Inn (central hostel) and the Generator Hostel (short walk from the city)
- Mid-range: Dublin Skylon Hotel (just outside the city), Wren Urban Nest (Temple Bar) and the Harding Hotel (very central)
- Luxury: The Merrion (St. Stephen’s Green – very central) and The Westin (just off Grafton Street)
Getting around Dublin + money savers
- Time savers: If you want to avoid walking where possible, it’s worth getting a ticket for the Hop On Hop Off Bus around Dublin. It goes to or near all of the main sites on this itinerary plus plenty more.
- Money saver: If you’re visiting the ‘main’ Dublin attractions, the Dublin Pass can save you €€€ (here’s how)
Stop 1: Dublin City
Dublin is around 2.5 hours from Waterford. Once you arrive, park the car at your accommodation and set out on foot to explore the city.
Stop 2: Trinity
Head straight to wherever you’re staying. Check-in and leave the car behind you. The city is very walkable.
When you get to the city, head straight for Trinity College to see the Book of Kells, arguably the most famous cultural attraction in Dublin.
If you can, we highly recommend pre-booking your tickets online, as the queues can get really long (bordering on ridiculous!). This fast-track ticket allows you to dodge the queue and gets you into Dublin Castle, too!
Spend around one hour seeing the Book of Kells, walking around the exhibit, and taking in the beauty of the Old Library. After that, give yourself another 20 minutes or so to walk around the university campus.
Stop 3: Lunch
There’s plenty of great restaurants in Dublin, but for lunch, we suggest you head to Neary’s. It’s just up the road from Trinity College, along the bustling Grafton Street.
This old-school pub is a classic and it serves up a range of simple lunch options, like sandwiches, soup, toasties, and Carlingford Oysters, all washed down with a tasty pint of Guinness.
Affordable and delicious, we can’t recommend it highly enough. Sprout and Co on Dawson Street is another good shout for a quick, light lunch that tastes great and is close to Trinity College.
Stop 4: The Ha’penny Bridge (via Temple Bar)
The Ha’penny Bridge is an iconic sight in Dublin and crossing it is a must. From Neary’s, it’s about a ten-minute walk that passes through the vibrant Temple Bar area.
As you pass through Temple Bar, you’ll see why this is the nightlife capital of Dublin, with endless pubs and clubs lining the streets.
The bridge itself is a quaint little footbridge over the River Liffey. In the old days, you’d have to pay a toll of half a penny to cross, hence the name.
If you fancy a coffee after your walk, head to Vice Coffee Inc, just over the bridge for a superb brew. You’ll also find tons of shops and pubs to enjoy on either side of the bridge.
Stop 5: Christ Church Cathedral
Christ Church Cathedral (a 9-minute stroll from the bridge) is another of Dublin’s top attractions and dating back more than 1,000 years, it’s pretty much as old as the city itself!
Steeped in history, it was originally founded by Viking king Sitruic Silkenbeard, but it’s come a long way since those early days (you can grab a ticket online here).
After admiring the stunning architecture from the outside, you can take a self-guided audio tour inside the cathedral.
Along the way, you’ll discover Strongbow’s grave and explore the crypts, which are home to a wealth of artefacts and exhibits, with such treasures as the mummified cat chasing a mummified rat inside an organ pipe.
Listen out for the record-breaking bells of Christ Church, and if you’re really lucky, you might catch the choir in action.
Stop 6: Guinness Storehouse
Next up is another iconic Dublin attraction, the Guinness Storehouse, a 15-minute walk from Christ Church. Dublin is the home of Guinness, and this tour of the brewery is a must for anyone with a love for the black stuff.
In fact, even if you’re not a fan of beer, this is a fantastic attraction to visit. Book your tickets in advance to avoid the queues. You can do a self-guided tour, but the guided-tour is, in our minds, the better option.
Along the way, you’ll hear a number of humorous tales, enjoy some of the brand’s most iconic adverts, and sample the brew at various stages of the process.
To finish, you’ll get a free pint in the fantastic Gravity Bar. Situated on the seventh floor, you’ll enjoy great views over the city as you sink a pint or two.
Stop 7: Dinner, drinks and live music
Stop by your hotel to freshen up before dinner or continue straight on to the restaurant. If you’re not sure of where to eat dinner in Dublin, we’ve got a couple of suggestions below for the evening.
Our Dublin food recommendations
There’s endless excellent restaurants in Dublin. However, if we had to pick one or two…
The first would be The Bull and Castle – it’s always a good choice and it’s right across the street from the Christ Church Cathedral.
An FX Buckley steakhouse (a Dublin institution), they offer a great range of steaks cooked to perfection, paired with their incredible beef dripping chips.
The Vintage Kitchen is an alternative, but it’s best to book in advance as it’s incredibly popular. A BYOB (bring your own bottle) place, the food is phenomenal, with a small but diverse menu that features classic Irish dishes with a contemporary twist.
Our Dublin pub recommendations
There’s certainly no shortage of great pubs in Dublin. If you’re a fan of old-school pubs, follow our Dublin pub crawl guide – it contains a short route with some of the city’s finest trad bars.
McNeils on Capel Street is an authentic Dublin pub, complete with wood panelling, impromptu folk sessions, and plenty of beers on tap.
The Long Hall is another must-see. Part Victorian time capsule, part vibrant boozer, it enjoys a fantastic atmosphere and is one of the most visually stunning pubs in the city.
You’ll find trad sessions at Pipers Corner every night of the week. O’Donoghues Bar on Merrion Row is another must-visit, with vintage decor and frequent trad sessions. It’s best-known as the home of the Dubliners, who used to play here regularly.
The Celt on Talbot Street is another great choice for live music, and while it’s not always trad, the bands are normally really good.
Day 17: Wicklow’s Wonders
On day 17 of your 20 days in Ireland itinerary, it’s time to put that rental car to use and head out of Dublin.
Today, you’ll be exploring Wicklow, also known as the Garden of Ireland.
Get yourself some breakfast either where you’re staying or at a cafe nearby. Then, double-check there’s a good amount of fuel in the car before heading to beautiful Wicklow via Sally Gap.
Stop 1: The Sally Gap Drive (multiple stops)
The glorious Sally Gap Drive can’t be missed and you’re best off doing it either before you head to Glendalough, if you’re up early, or after, on your way home.
The reason for this is that you’re best off getting to Glendalough as early as you can, as it tends to get very busy at times.
When you do get to do the drive, aim for Lough Tay first. Also known as Guinness Lake, Lough Tay is the jewel in Sally Gap’s crown!
From here, follow the winding road down, over the PS I Love You bridge and around until you reach a car park (on your right).
From here, very carefully walk around and get an eyeful of Glenmacnass Waterfall before heading on to Glendalough.
Stop 2: Glendalough Visitor Centre and Monastic City
Park up at the Glendalough Visitor Centre (the Lower Car Park – €4) and plan to spend between one and 30 – 45 minutes exploring the centre and the ‘Monastic City’ (your next stop).
The visitor centre is right next to the Monastic City, one of the most important monastic sites in the country. The city was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and went on to become one of Europe’s most famous religious sites!
At the centre, there’s a wonderful exhibition on the history of Glendalough and St. Kevin. There’s also an interesting 15-minute long audio and visual presentation about early Irish Saints and monasteries.
Now you’ve learned about the site, it’s time to take a 2-minute stroll to the Monastic City next door. Whilst the remains of the city are scattered all across the glen, many of the main ruins and features are within walking distance of the visitor centre.
These include the Glendalough Round Tower, one of the city’s most well-known landmarks. It stands 33 metres high and dates back almost 1000 years! Other attractions nearby include St. Kevin’s Church and the Glendalough Cathedral ruins.
Stop 3: Glendalough Upper Lake
Your next stop is Glendalough Upper Lake. You can either walk the 20 minutes from the Monastic City via the scenic Green Road, or if you’re too tired, grab the car and make the quick 2-minute drive to the car park nearby.
However, it’s important to note that the car park tends to fill up quickly. Here’s info on the different car parks in the area. From the car park, there are two paths leading to the Upper Lake’s sandy shore.
Stop 4: Lunch at the Wicklow Heather
We absolutely love stopping by the Wicklow Heather for lunch whenever we’re in Glendalough. The restaurant is in the heart of idyllic Laragh, with a historical interior and some lovely outdoor seating areas.
The menu has traditional Irish dishes, like comforting seafood chowder or hearty cottage pies, with an option for vegetarians and vegans.
It’s just a 4-minute drive from the Glendalough Visitor Centre/Monastic City and 6 minutes from the Upper Lake Car Park.
Stop 5: Powerscourt House and Gardens
Once you’re nicely fed, hop in the car for the 35-minute drive to Powerscourt House and Gardens. Powerscourt House is a beautiful 68-room mansion nestled inside a 47-acre garden.
We’d recommend you give yourself at least two hours here to admire the house and to walk through the gorgeous gardens.
The current Powerscourt House was completed in 1741 under the watchful eye of the 1st Viscount Powerscourt.
However, it was built around a 13th-century Mediaeval Castle belonging to the Le Power family, where ‘Powerscourt’ is derived.
Like the house, the gardens at Powerscourt are filled with grandeur and were voted by National Geographic as one of the world’s Top Ten Gardens!
Stop 6: Back to Dublin for the night
After a long day of exploring, it’s time to say goodbye to Wicklow and head back to Dublin.
Our Dublin food recommendations
There’s endless excellent restaurants in Dublin. However, if we had to pick one or two…
The first would be The Bull and Castle – it’s always a good choice and it’s right across the street from the Christ Church Cathedral.
An FX Buckley steakhouse (a Dublin institution), they offer a great range of steaks cooked to perfection, paired with their incredible beef dripping chips.
The Vintage Kitchen is an alternative, but it’s best to book in advance as it’s incredibly popular. A BYOB (bring your own bottle) place, the food is phenomenal, with a small but diverse menu that features classic Irish dishes with a contemporary twist.
Our Dublin pub recommendations
There’s certainly no shortage of great pubs in Dublin. If you’re a fan of old-school pubs, follow our Dublin pub crawl guide – it contains a short route with some of the city’s finest trad bars.
McNeils on Capel Street is an authentic Dublin pub, complete with wood panelling, impromptu folk sessions, and plenty of beers on tap.
The Long Hall is another must-see. Part Victorian time capsule, part vibrant boozer, it enjoys a fantastic atmosphere and is one of the most visually stunning pubs in the city.
You’ll find trad sessions at Pipers Corner every night of the week. O’Donoghues Bar on Merrion Row is another must-visit, with vintage decor and frequent trad sessions. It’s best-known as the home of the Dubliners, who used to play here regularly.
The Celt on Talbot Street is another great choice for live music, and while it’s not always trad, the bands are normally really good.
Day 18: Mighty Meath and Louth
On day 18 of the 20 days in Ireland itinerary, you’ll be heading out to County Meath, known for its archaeological sites.
Today, we recommend getting breakfast either at your accommodation or a nearby cafe. There won’t be places to grab a bite near your first stop, so it’s best to eat before you leave Dublin.
Stop 1: Newgrange
Newgrange is a fascinating prehistoric monument and the main attraction in the Brú na Bóinne World Heritage Site. The Neolithic passage tomb was built around 3200 BC, making it older than the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge!
From Dublin City Centre, it’s around a 45-minute drive (depending on traffic). We recommend setting out as early as possible to avoid traffic.
You can book your Newgrange Tour + Exhibition tickets here. Pre-booking is essential. Please note that you cannot go to the monuments directly. You must start at the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. The Newgrange Tour is roughly one hour long.
Stop 2: Monasterboice
Monasterboice is a 20-minute drive from Newgrange. The ruins date back to the late 5th century and were founded by Saint Buithe.
The Christian settlement was an important centre of religion and learning in the area up until 1142 when the Mellifont Abbey was founded.
Highlights of the settlement are the 28-metre round tower, two church ruins, and the magnificent 10th-century high crosses – the Muiredach’s Cross and the West Cross (the tallest in Ireland).
We recommend spending around 30 minutes here.
Stop 3: Hill of Slane
The Hill of Slane is an incredibly important site and a possible location for where St. Patrick lit the Paschal Candle, which represented Christianity coming to Ireland.
The site is home to 16th-century Franciscan Monastery ruins, built on top of an older monastery founded by St. Erc, one of St. Patrick’s followers.
It’s a 15-minute drive from Monasterboice, and we’d recommend spending between 30 minutes to an hour here, depending on how much you want to explore.
Stop 4: Lunch in Trim and Trim Castle
Trim Castle is Ireland’s largest Anglo-Norman fortification and you’ll find it a 30-minute drive from Slane.
It’s very impressive with an imposing presence. The Castle dates back to the 12th century and took Hugh de Lacy and his successors 30 years to complete.
It’s free to visit the castle grounds, but a guided tour of the keep costs €5 (adult), €4 (senior), €3 (student/child), and €13 (family).
The tour is well worth it, especially for any Braveheart fans, as parts of the movie were filmed there!
The castle is open daily between 10am and 5pm. We’d recommend at least 30 minutes to one hour here.
For lunch, check out StockHouse Restaurant or Rosemary Bistro.
Stop 5: Bective Abbey
The next stop is Bective Abbey, a 10-minute drive away. It was founded in 1147 for the Cistercian Order and became a significant monastic settlement.
The ruins you can see today mostly date back to the 13th and 15th centuries, with a chapter house, a church, and a cloister.
The ruins have been used several times in Hollywood movies. Most recently in The Last Duel, which came out in 2020.
The abbey is free to visit with a designated car park. Give yourself around 30 minutes here.
Stop 6: Hill of Tara
The last stop of the day is the Hill of Tara. It’s a 12-minute drive from Bective Abbey and we’d say 30-45 minutes is a good amount of time to spend here.
The Hill of Tara has been in use since the late Stone Age, but it’s known best as the seat of the High Kings of Ireland, with all old Irish roads leading to the site!
The site is shrouded in myth, and the story of Conn of the Hundred Battles tells the tale of how the High Kings of Ireland came to be.
It’s free to visit, with a free 25-minute Audio Visual Show at the visitor centre (in the church), and free guided tours scheduled every day. The centre is open between 10am and 5pm year-round, but the site is open 24/7.
Stop 7: Back to Dublin for the night
From the Hill of Tara, it’s a 50-minute drive back to Dublin City Centre (depending on traffic).
Our Dublin food recommendations
There’s endless excellent restaurants in Dublin. However, if we had to pick one or two…
The first would be The Bull and Castle – it’s always a good choice and it’s right across the street from the Christ Church Cathedral.
An FX Buckley steakhouse (a Dublin institution), they offer a great range of steaks cooked to perfection, paired with their incredible beef dripping chips.
The Vintage Kitchen is an alternative, but it’s best to book in advance as it’s incredibly popular. A BYOB (bring your own bottle) place, the food is phenomenal, with a small but diverse menu that features classic Irish dishes with a contemporary twist.
Our Dublin pub recommendations
There’s certainly no shortage of great pubs in Dublin. If you’re a fan of old-school pubs, follow our Dublin pub crawl guide – it contains a short route with some of the city’s finest trad bars.
McNeils on Capel Street is an authentic Dublin pub, complete with wood panelling, impromptu folk sessions, and plenty of beers on tap.
The Long Hall is another must-see. Part Victorian time capsule, part vibrant boozer, it enjoys a fantastic atmosphere and is one of the most visually stunning pubs in the city.
You’ll find trad sessions at Pipers Corner every night of the week. O’Donoghues Bar on Merrion Row is another must-visit, with vintage decor and frequent trad sessions. It’s best-known as the home of the Dubliners, who used to play here regularly.
The Celt on Talbot Street is another great choice for live music, and while it’s not always trad, the bands are normally really good.
Day 19: Athlone and surrounds
Today you’ll be heading to historic Athlone, where you will spend your last night in Ireland.
Grab some breakfast at your accommodation or nearby and then hit the road. The drive to Athlone takes around 1.5 hours, but we’ll be breaking up the journey with some stops.
You’ll pass through tolls on the M4 and the M6 so make sure to bring some euro coins or a card that taps!
Our Athlone accommodation recommendations
- Budget: The Bailey (no-fuss B&B right in the town) and Riverview House (10-minute drive from town with superb reviews)
- Mid-range: Radisson Blu and Sheraton Athlone (both super central with excellent reviews)
- Luxury: Glasson LakeHouse (very unique accommodation a 20-minute drive from town)
Stop 1: Dún na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park
The Dún na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park is a great little amenity and heritage park set in 27 acres of countryside. Its name ‘Dún na Sí’ means ‘fort of the fairies’, after the local legend that the lone hawthorn trees on the grounds once marked a fairy fort.
At the heritage park, you can explore what life was like in Ireland 100 years ago through the reconstructed cottages, farmhouse, and blacksmith’s forge. The site also contains a medieval ringfort settlement and ancient dolmens.
The amenity park has some beautiful trails through a wetland reserve, with a specially-made ‘hide’ where you can observe the wild birds.
Stop 2: Athlone Castle
Athlone Castle is in the centre of Athlone on the banks of the River Shannon, a 20-minute drive from the previous stop. There are two public car parks around the castle, as well as plenty of street parking if these get full (see parking here and here on Google Maps).
The stone castle is in great condition and dates back to the 13th century. It was in a key strategic position for defending the Athlone River crossing and played an important part in the infamous Siege of Athlone.
The visitor centre is full of information about the castle’s history, with eight exhibitions.
Stop 3: Lunch
By now, you must be getting hungry, so enjoy a hearty lunch at Craft Bistro, Loaves and Fishes, or Bean and Leaves.
Stop 4: Church of St. Peter and St. Paul
The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is just across from Athlone Castle. It’s a beautiful Roman Catholic Church built in the Baroque-revival style between 1932 and 1939.
It’s most well-known for its stunning stained-glass windows that were made in the Harry Clarke workshop. Head inside if you can and admire Saint Joseph, Saint Patrick, Last Judgement, and Purgatory windows.
Stop 5: Dinner, drinks, and live music
Head to your accommodation to check in (if you didn’t already) and freshen up before dinner.
Our Athlone food recommendations
We’ve got a couple of stellar recommendations for your last night in Ireland.
For something special, choose Thyme for dinner, a restaurant featured in the Michelin Guide. Their menu features modern Irish cuisine, with dishes like ham hock, celeriac, and crispy hen’s egg, or goat loin, confit belly, pressed shoulder, asparagus, hen of the woods, and wild garlic. They also have a value menu if your budget is feeling a little tight at the end of the trip.
For classic Irish and fusion cuisine, we like Bacchus. They have a delicious seafood casserole and more imaginative dishes like Tandoori roast lamb rump.
Our Athlone pub recommendations
For post-dinner drinks, Sean’s Bar is a must. It’s Ireland’s oldest pub and is officially recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records. Inside, it’s got traditional decor and a great atmosphere. They do a cracking pint of Guinness but even if you’re not a drinker, it’s worth visiting this historical pub.
Other spots we like for post-dinner drinks are Peddler Mac, The Snug Bar, and Nuts Corner.
Head to our recommendations above for live music, although you may have to pick and choose based on who’s got live music going on that night.
Day 20: Back to Knock and home
And that’s the end of your whirlwind trip to Ireland! Depending on what time your flight leaves, you may have to head out early or have some more time to explore before you drive to Knock Airport.
The airport is approximately an hour and 20 minutes away, so make sure to give yourself plenty of time to catch your flight!
And that’s a wrap on this road trip
We hope you found the above road trip guide useful. If you have any questions, ask in the comments below and we’ll do our best to help.
Or, if you’d like to browse our other Irish Road Trip itineraries, visit our Road Trip Hub – cheers!
Keith O’Hara has lived in Ireland for 35 years and has spent most of the last 10 creating what is now The Irish Road Trip guide. Over the years, the website has published thousands of meticulously researched Ireland travel guides, welcoming 30 million+ visitors along the way. In 2022, the Irish Road Trip team published the world’s largest collection of Irish Road Trip itineraries. Keith lives in Dublin with his dog Toby and finds writing in the 3rd person minus craic altogether.